Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10148369)

There is a tall tower, a medium tower, and a short tower, right? All of them give the car a different roll center. Lowering the tower lowers the roll center, raising it raises it. The opposite thing happens in the inside camber link stud, adding shims lowers the roll center, taking them away raises it.

Raising the roll center makes the chassis roll in the corner a little easier, lowering it keeps the chassis flatter. You can read up on it a little more here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center

But to answer your original question, the factory guys always run the shortest tower, and if they don't, they cite it on the setup sheets. The only time I ever saw a taller one cited was on a 4wd.

Originally Posted by frankiebonez (Post 10148727)

So I have a question, how do I make this thing turn even sharper in the turns?

It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.

Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...

Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.

Originally Posted by frankiebonez (Post 10148727)

So I have a question, how do I make this thing turn even sharper in the turns?

It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.

Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...

Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.

Originally Posted by kc_nitro_rc (Post 10149662)

Ask the guys that are blazing thru the turns if they will take a few laps with your truck. First thing is to determine if it is the driver or truck. They would be the best ones to give you suggestions.

Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10150218)

I often take laps in other peoples rigs/hand my transmitter to other people to see what happens when they drive it.
.

Originally Posted by OnlyVees (Post 10151636)

I've seen some of the factory guys running dog bones over CVD's at certain tracks...

Can someone please explain when one is better than the other?

Originally Posted by chad bradley (Post 10127255)

Rear Axles are a big deal in regards to rear traction, mainly how they bind or cause friction in thier joints.

More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)

Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.

Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.

You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.

Originally Posted by aSab (Post 10148988)

turn faster in 180ºs or in fast paced turns, chicanes? are they faster than you going in or coming out? is the truck loose/pushing in or out of the corner?

Originally Posted by Asharus (Post 10150118)

are you running the same tires as them? if not, that's the first thing i'd change.

Originally Posted by frankiebonez (Post 10153189)

Not to toot my own horn but I dont think its driver, I really dont. I just cant get the truck to turn as fast. Maybe rip out the servo saver and put in aluminum bellcrank setup would help?

Originally Posted by frankiebonez (Post 10153189)

yea running the popular tires everyone at the track is.

I find that if I apply more drag brake I definitely turn in better but then the rear gets slippery from the tires locking up since I'm braking through the turns.

Not to toot my own horn but I dont think its driver, I really dont. I just cant get the truck to turn as fast. Maybe rip out the servo saver and put in aluminum bellcrank setup would help?