I stripped out my original motor plate because of only having one thread holding. Even without the washers the bolts are still a thread from being flush with the motor plate.

The SC10 4x4 rear tie rod upgrade is way worth doing. Tons more robust, easier to clean, and way less slop.

I missed this. Can you provide details or a link to the post that shows the upgrade?

check it out here...

SC10 Diff Rebuild Help, First Timer
 

Hey all, any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Just got an SC10 RS RTR, getting back into the hobby again after some years and been racing with some buddies on their backyard track. Needless to say I've been running it non stop and about three runs in it started with the cranking /clicking noise on hard acceleration and turning, I'd like to say it's lost a bit of power (though I know its terrible for it, its not doing doughnuts on pavement like it did out of the box).

After doing my research, I've come to suspect its the missing shims in the gear diff. I have a few questions I'd love some responses on before I begin to dabble. From tower hobbies I just ordered:

-Diff Rebuild Kit LXXCX2
-3000 cst and 5000 cst diff oils
-silicon diff grease
-stealth black grease

My plan is to take the large shims from the pack and one to each side on the diff on top of the shim already there? Or am I to just replace the piece with this new one? I am to coat it with the silicon grease before inserting, correct?

I understand the stock set up fills the diff with black grease, but many suggest using oil to control the stiffness. 3000cst seems to be the stock, and 5000cst would make for a bit tighter control. How much oil do I put in? Fill it to the brim? What weight do you suggest?

I think that's about it. Any tips or tricks? Anything to pay attention to? Anything to adjust while im in there? Thanks guys!

Thanks. I always had trrouble with the rear camber links. I solved my issues with two changes. First I switched to RPM Ball cups on the stock AE ball studs. Then I changed the top plate to a STRC aluminum one. With lock tight to keep the ball studs from getting loose I have had great success with this set-up.

Ball diff as tuning tool.
 

So how many people use the ball diff setting as a tuning tool? I race on a lot of different track surfaces from high bite to sand and just wondered if I should be adj. it?

I keep mine tight unless the track is loose and then I loosen the dif to improve corner traction.

That PN is only for the rears. They are too big to be used on the front

Tighter will slow down the rotation in the corner & bring more traction


Looser will speed up rotation & bring more steering.....

I'd say we all do to an extent. I generally set it pretty tight but still smooth, though.

I check it at the start of every race day and leave it alone the rest of the day.

so ill be getting my sc10 soon, its an rtr with a ball diff and aluminum steering rack....ik ill update turnbuckles to ft but are there any other upgrades? I got an rtr b4.1 about 9 months ago and then i just got the ft since all the upgrades were there and i just need a fresh start...im not buying the ft so what are some good upgrades to make it race worthy? i have a s.p esc and a novak 13.5 for it and it has a pretty fast and strong hitech servo.....bleader caps for sure, those pretty blue countersunk washers ofcourse:sneaky::lol: and if i am running a 2wd buggy do the same tires for the sc as far as tread desighn example- i am running m3 holeshots and bowties for b4.1 same for sC?

THANKS I AM A SC NEWB but i do know my buggy lol:rolleyes::tire::lol:

Welcome to the short bus Guy, you're gonna love it. Well, maybe not all the hackers (there tends to be more hackers in SC than buggy).

The FT turnbuckles are really not needed until you bend one. You already have the ball diff so you're pretty much set except for the V2 shocks. The rest of the FT upgrades are pretty much just bling. Oh, get the V2 slipper, pads, nut and spring. Also, unlike the B4, the SC10 comes with plastic 0deg hubs. If you ever break a hub, go with the aluminum. FYI I hear those aluminum bellcranks tend to bind. Check it often.

Get the JC 12mm hex conversions for the rear as soon as you can. I found that those rear rollpins tend to break more often than the buggy. After I broke 2 I replaced it with hexes. The fronts are really not needed, but is good to have to make everything interchangeable. I have not converted them yet. I may one day once JC releases their aluminum front hexes.

good information.....thank you

So here's my question of the day.....how often should we clean out the the ball diff system?