![]() |
converting to hex is a Great Idea ... able to Swap fronts to rear rears to fronts 2wd to 4wd ... opens up all yoru tires .. around
jconcepts hex is the way to go ... thr pro line front is good but the hex is a little sloppy... |
Originally Posted by bigdaddyquale
(Post 9064123)
why do you want hexes on a b4?:weird:
|
Originally Posted by ldivinag
(Post 9078881)
anyone have a spare KIT manual that you have laying around?
i seemed to have lost mine and while PFDs are great, sometimes you are in the middle of no where and need a manual... thanks.. |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9076179)
Yes it's a great thing to do but wait for AE to get the parts out from their SC10 RS. Then you will have the best fit of parts.
|
Can't wait for this to come out!
|
Yeah, the pins are ridiculous. I forgot how bad they were, after using hexes for a few years...they --are "not good", so it's nice to see AE recognizing that we all need some improvement in that area..Now--when can I get some, before I get too many tires mounted on the old wheels..
|
Originally Posted by bigdaddyquale
(Post 9064123)
why do you want hexes on a b4?:weird:
|
As soon as AE releases the part numbers, I'll be converting both my FT SC10 and RTR SC10.
I've noticed the JConcepts conversion has been on back order, wonder if they stopped making them because the new AE hex conversions will be released soon? |
Originally Posted by L8Braker
(Post 9079635)
As soon as AE releases the part numbers, I'll be converting both my FT SC10 and RTR SC10.
I've noticed the JConcepts conversion has been on back order, wonder if they stopped making them because the new AE hex conversions will be released soon? |
Originally Posted by ldivinag
(Post 9078881)
anyone have a spare KIT manual that you have laying around?
i seemed to have lost mine and while PFDs are great, sometimes you are in the middle of no where and need a manual... thanks.. |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 9069466)
The FT shocks are easier to build consistently, don't leak as bad as the more modern, old-style shocks, and are faster/easier to rebuild when the time comes. Not to mention they have TiNi coated shafts.
Spoken like somebody that has never owned both the stock SC10 RTR/basic kit shocks and the V2s How do you know that. You know what they say when you assume. PS: Been running AE products for a Decade. |
Sorry guys for the change of subject. Had a (probably simple question) for everyone:
I'm a regular in the 1/8th arena & just purchased an SC10. I'm running a TEKIN 8.5 RS Pro system. Servo choices. I run a digital servo in my RC8be. What do people run in the SC's? Digital? High torque metal gearing? My digital provides 202 torque oz. for my buggy. I know this is overkill on SC's. What would be a good servo wtih quick response and what torque oz. would you all recommend? I'm racing a 300ft track. It's really taking shape for a 1/8 size. Thanks! |
Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96
(Post 9081653)
How do you know that. You know what they say when you assume.
PS: Been running AE products for a Decade. You know what they say when you assume:rolleyes:
Originally Posted by Sarinexia
(Post 9081686)
Sorry guys for the change of subject. Had a (probably simple question) for everyone:
I'm a regular in the 1/8th arena & just purchased an SC10. I'm running a TEKIN 8.5 RS Pro system. Servo choices. I run a digital servo in my RC8be. What do people run in the SC's? Digital? High torque metal gearing? My digital provides 202 torque oz. for my buggy. I know this is overkill on SC's. What would be a good servo wtih quick response and what torque oz. would you all recommend? I'm racing a 300ft track. It's really taking shape for a 1/8 size. Thanks! |
I have a quick question, my slipper clutch keeps glazing my pads and I have the FT V2 slipper clutch kit in my sc10, and yet it keeps slipping and glazing up my pads every run, and i aint even abusive to the truck. I have a 10.5 speedpassion motor and speedo in it, I rebuilt the gear diff a month ago and its been doing this for 7 months now, I have to sand the pads because if I dont they glaze up after every run. I just ordered the 4wd SC10 high torque pads to see if this will fix it, and no even if I tighten on the slipper alot it still glazes up my slipper pads. The only time i gun it is at the start of a race, but I've seen guys with 10.5s or 8.5 sc10's race and never sand down their slipper pads each race. Any help would be appreciated.
|
Originally Posted by Sarinexia
(Post 9081686)
Sorry guys for the change of subject. Had a (probably simple question) for everyone:
I'm a regular in the 1/8th arena & just purchased an SC10. I'm running a TEKIN 8.5 RS Pro system. Servo choices. I run a digital servo in my RC8be. What do people run in the SC's? Digital? High torque metal gearing? My digital provides 202 torque oz. for my buggy. I know this is overkill on SC's. What would be a good servo wtih quick response and what torque oz. would you all recommend? I'm racing a 300ft track. It's really taking shape for a 1/8 size. Thanks! anything around 120-150oz and less than .1 is good for the sc10. I would still stay with metal gears and glue ur servo saver together or upgrade to aluminum bellcrank to get the most response |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:21 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.