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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 8305204)
That sucks.
Basically ThunderbirdJunkie should get all the old-style CVD rebuild kits he can before they're all gone is what you're sayin? :ha: |
Originally Posted by RustyRC
(Post 8306708)
You can find tiny hex screw in holes where pins goes. thats what they did.:p
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 8305204)
That sucks.
Basically ThunderbirdJunkie should get all the old-style CVD rebuild kits he can before they're all gone is what you're sayin? :ha: I have also thought of getting a few sets of the old style rebuild kits myself. |
TRX, just found out (the hard way) that the old style makes them bind up.
Some shrink tubing over the pins (like ThunderbirdJunkie has always done on his CVDs anyway) is keeping them in place now :nod: Screw those silly rings, lol. |
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
(Post 8307935)
TRX, just found out (the hard way) that the old style makes them bind up.
Some shrink tubing over the pins (like ThunderbirdJunkie has always done on his CVDs anyway) is keeping them in place now :nod: Screw those silly rings, lol. |
I was wondering, who makes a body that sits the lowest on the SC10 chassis?
The stock SC10 body is very tall compared to the stock bodies on the other trucks (especially the XXX-SCT), it has to hurt the handling on the truck (being so high) |
Originally Posted by FLHX1550
(Post 8308854)
I was wondering, who makes a body that sits the lowest on the SC10 chassis?
The stock SC10 body is very tall compared to the stock bodies on the other trucks (especially the XXX-SCT), it has to hurt the handling on the truck (being so high) |
Originally Posted by rapster402
(Post 8308863)
Stock body is best. Looks best and is light. Just cut 4 notches in the front of it so you can lower it into the bumper. Works great
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
(Post 8285357)
don't let a frinds kid try ur truck before the mains. not making the race do to a part he breaks that u don't have is a waisted day.
check ur rear wheel nuts after every race. they tend to loosend after time and stripped wheels get expensive. if they loosend more than once, replace with new. just wanted to add a couple off the top of my head. |
Manta body sits low & has raised fenders In my opinion the best body for racing. The week point is bottom of front winsheild to end of fender.
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Stock body sits low over the wheels.
I am on the bottom pin in front and the 4 pin from the bottom in the rear. Body rub isnt really an issue and i tape up my body anyways so my paint does not get ruined. |
I run the stock body as low as I can. It does rub a lot but I usally run the outside body pin up a couple holes so the tires can bump the body up a little under hard corners or jump landings. Under the body I use some scuff tape to help save the paint some.
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Originally Posted by rapster402
(Post 8308863)
Stock body is best. Looks best and is light. Just cut 4 notches in the front of it so you can lower it into the bumper. Works great
Just notch it so it can drop over the bumper. |
'setup ESC
I have a sc10 rtr that I just installed the Mamba SC esc/motor combo. Could someone please give me a good esc setup, gearing, and chassis setup for a medium size, bumpy, slick track. Thanks
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Just a little tidbit of information on the servo saver springs. I brought one silve and one black spring into work and measured them on the inspection equipment we use for the springs in the switches we sell.
The "free lenght" of both springs is.375. I tested both at two different "compressed heights". One height was .250 and the second was at .200. Here are the results; Silver at .250 height = 14.16 lbs Black at .250 height = 13.89 lbs Silver at .200 height = 20.27 lbs Black at .200 height = 20.48 lbs As you can see, the silver is slightly stiffer at the lesser compression height and the black is slightly stiffer at the greater compession hgeight. Since the spring seems to be compressed about 1/8 in this would be why the black is slightly STIFFER after it is installed. Bob Oaks |
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