BigHurt you the man, Thanks!!!!

I have the same motor, and the Havoc ESC. I was overheating on my indoor track with a 30. Switched to a 23 and it was a little slow, I would say some where in the 24,25 range with the 75 spur. There is a great excel sheet somewhere in these forums that will dial you in on exactly what you need. I would start adding pinions to your gear bag, Most guys at the track will loan you one, but I would reccomend just adding one to your arsenal.

It also depends on your straightaways, and how short and technical it gets. If you do find that info on gear selection be sure to change you transmission ratio to the correct one. I have the FT setup and its 2.6:1 Not sure about the RTR

Thanks that link is great too!!!

Man thats weird. I was just getting ready to post about what gearing should I run with my havok pro esc and ballisitc 17.5 in my ft sc10.

My Build Mistakes and tips
 

After a couple weeks with my truck Id like to add my two cents. Some of these tips or advice, are budget limited.

Pay attention to all the instructions. Read thru all of them first.

When building your shocks, one O-ring goes to the top of the shock, the other goes in the collar.

The rear A arms can be put on wrong, Make sure they are on the correct side, right side up. If the dogbones rub, its wrong.

When plugging in the servo and trottle controls to your esc, make sure your connectors are in correct postion. Connections with out that little tab can be put in wrong.

When programming, understand all of the steps from beginning to end. Dont start pushing buttons until you understand clearly what should happen, or what you should do next.

Learn how to solder, practice makes perfect. You tube has some great "how to" videos

Deans connectors can only be plugged in one way, Put them on your electronics

If you need adaptors to connect your battery that is different than your ECS, see above note.

Always make sure that your ECS is in the off position before you plug in your battery.

If you dont follow any of the last three tips, sending your five day old Novak ESC and motor back for a replacement is very expensive. Save yourself some cash.

If you break your front A-arms and replace them with the RPM's you will need a shorter pin. A dremel will take down your stock ones, but its good to have extra's.

If you can afford it and you dont have them, Purchase a good set of allen wrenches, with a handle. Your thumbs will thank you.

Im sure that I will be adding to my reasearch, mistake by mistake.

don't let a frinds kid try ur truck before the mains. not making the race do to a part he breaks that u don't have is a waisted day.

check ur rear wheel nuts after every race. they tend to loosend after time and stripped wheels get expensive. if they loosend more than once, replace with new.

just wanted to add a couple off the top of my head.

Hey, couple questions:

Installed MIP's C-CVDs the other day. The white ring that retains the pins came off every single heat and ThunderbirdJunkie was pretty nervous as to whether the CVDs would hold together during a 10 minute main (they did, luckily).

Also bent one of the shafts. Never had this happen before, and only got them because the old style CVDs that WERE in there were just worn out and sloppy beyond help being rebuilt.

Is there a special trick to putting that snap ring on it?

CVD
 

I put super glue on cvd w/two drops each side with snap ring. so they dont come off.;)

Hey guys I have a ft SC10 with a tekin rs pro and 7.5t motor. What would be a good pinion?

20T

Ok little help here..Indoor carpet offroad, tekin rs with 17.5, there is a jump(kicker on front straight) everytime i hit it, throws back of truck up, casnt hit it hard, running basically ft setup, ive tried thicker oil and diff springs with no luck. also truck wants to roll alot, rear swaybar helps,but still rolls alot,whats some good advice...

That sucks.

Basically ThunderbirdJunkie should get all the old-style CVD rebuild kits he can before they're all gone is what you're sayin? :ha:

TBJ should get the Losi XXXSC :sneaky:

I dont have any feedback from the changes ive made, but your gonna want to add some internal spacers to your shocks. Its gonna allow you to lower your center of gravity, and increase your spring tension. Ill let you know if ive added too much to mine but that's a good place to start. Still be able to jump just not as much travel in the suspension.