Originally Posted by Asharus (Post 9755604)

Welcome to the short bus Guy, you're gonna love it. Well, maybe not all the hackers (there tends to be more hackers in SC than buggy).

The FT turnbuckles are really not needed until you bend one. You already have the ball diff so you're pretty much set except for the V2 shocks. The rest of the FT upgrades are pretty much just bling. Oh, get the V2 slipper, pads, nut and spring. Also, unlike the B4, the SC10 comes with plastic 0deg hubs. If you ever break a hub, go with the aluminum. FYI I hear those aluminum bellcranks tend to bind. Check it often.

Get the JC 12mm hex conversions for the rear as soon as you can. I found that those rear rollpins tend to break more often than the buggy. After I broke 2 I replaced it with hexes. The fronts are really not needed, but is good to have to make everything interchangeable. I have not converted them yet. I may one day once JC releases their aluminum front hexes.

Originally Posted by Doitinthedirt (Post 9755630)

So here's my question of the day.....how often should we clean out the the ball diff system?

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 9755658)

ok ill try my best but its kinda alot, i still like the stock shocks i feel they are just as good but not as simple, ill just get bleaders for know and the hexes, what tires fit on the hexes? and ive driven alot of i love em=]:sneaky:

once it feels gritty or not smooth at all trust me you can tell, it goes for all diffs.

Originally Posted by Doitinthedirt (Post 9755630)

So here's my question of the day.....how often should we clean out the the ball diff system?

Originally Posted by Asharus (Post 9755665)

I use the Rulux 12mm hex wheels for the SC10, made by JC. Rebars/Barcodes/Beams/Suburbs for indoor and Cityblocks/Goosebumps for outdoor, depending on surface.

Originally Posted by Asharus (Post 9755670)

Guy is correct, no need to rebuild the diff unless it starts to feel gritty. Most of the time the grit you feel is from the thrust balls/washer, but you should rebuild the entire diff anyway. I like to keep a spare ball diff for each car and just slap it in when needed, then rebuild the other when I get a chance.

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 9755680)

thanks i edited the quote tho lol i asked how do you get 3 ounces of weight in the back i think i read that on a setup.....what setup do you run btw?

Originally Posted by Asharus (Post 9755780)

I run the maifield 2010 roar nats setup for pretty much every track I go to. The only difference is that I run 32.5wt all around and run the C hole on the rear hub, plus one washer underneath the U brace ball stud.

you can run 3 strips of 4x1/4 oz weights against the rear shock tower behind the batt, or run the ballast in front of the tranny and run 2 4x1/4 weights behind the batt and 1/4 in each rear triangle.

Edit: I just double checked, I run 2 washers (or the large blue FT ballstud washer) on the rear U brace.

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13 (Post 9755877)

ok thanks, ill ad and subtract washer depending if i whant more slide , ill keep the ballstudd in the 2 hole out for rotation bc the track i run on is tight and needs lots of rotation, would you like to run today? don is coming to charlies with possibly bill and peter

Originally Posted by mxracer458 (Post 9756162)

What's a good gearing for non timing 17.5,our class rules changed so I need to find a good gearing to start with,run on indoor wett clay,good size track,pretty tight also

Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 9756447)

75/26.

Originally Posted by Oso Negro (Post 9756609)

+1

do they allow you to advance endbell timing or use other rotors?

you should find out. There is more than one way to go fast!

Originally Posted by rustybaker (Post 9752159)

Needless to say I've been running it non stop and about three runs in it started with the cranking /clicking noise on hard acceleration and turning, I'd like to say it's lost a bit of power

Originally Posted by rustybaker (Post 9763479)

Thanks for sharing your experience. I ordered the whole AE diff rebuild kit, 3k oil, 5k oil, black grease, and silcon. What do you guys recommend to solve this? Do as NV Racer did and pack it full of grease and touch nothing else or rebuild it using the rebuild kit and 5k?

Also, I can't seem to find the answer to the shim fix. The rebuild comes with #9829 shims. Should I add these to the shims already there (double up on both sides) or just replace the ones there with the 9829s?