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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

elex300 01-08-2012 05:51 PM

How are the stock tires in the FT kit for carpet? What are you guys using on the rug?

Delta_Ice 01-08-2012 07:57 PM

esp
 
Do any of you guys know if the XP SC200 esp that comes with the rtr would be ok to run on ice? We have 3" of ice everywhere and no puddles so was just curious if I could run my truck out on it or if the tiny bit of moisture would kill the servo or esp.

CoyoteSlash 01-08-2012 07:58 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10142060)
How are the stock tires in the FT kit for carpet? What are you guys using on the rug?

Guys like the Stock Tires. (fronts) for Carpet from what I hear.

The Jconcepts rear tires are probably too sticky.

wcrase101 01-08-2012 11:00 PM

associated's site won't load and I absolutely cannot find my manual what is the part number for them lil screws that hold the hinge pins in and hub pins. looked on a-main and still can't figure it out for sure.:confused:

wcrase101 01-08-2012 11:04 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10142060)
How are the stock tires in the FT kit for carpet? What are you guys using on the rug?

when we used to run on carpet the hot setup was sc10 up front and blitz tires in the back, make sure the blitz tires are d compound, do not use the s compound for some reason those sucked really bad on carpet.

aSab 01-09-2012 01:00 AM


Originally Posted by wcrase101 (Post 10143434)
associated's site won't load and I absolutely cannot find my manual what is the part number for them lil screws that hold the hinge pins in and hub pins. looked on a-main and still can't figure it out for sure.:confused:

#9645 that is, 2-56x1/8" screwz

kc_nitro_rc 01-09-2012 06:09 AM


Originally Posted by Wildewinds (Post 10138477)
Looking for a good setup sheet to follow for a slippery and bumpy track. I'm having problems getting the power down coming out of a turn. The back end wants to fishtail, even halfway down the straightaway.

Tell us a little about your current setup.
Where are your front camber links mounted on the inside (shock tower) and outside (near the wheel)? How many washers are you using on the inside?

Same for the rear- where are your camber links located? How many washers are you using?

What is your anti-squat? You probably don't have any or very little. Try setting it to 2.

My truck started doing the same thing after I changed my camber links. (made them longer). I'm going to play with them a little bit.

wcrase101 01-09-2012 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by aSab (Post 10143640)
#9645 that is, 2-56x1/8" screwz

thank you very much.

CraigMBA 01-09-2012 12:12 PM


Originally Posted by brent701 (Post 10138586)
the Hub tower in the rear.

Because they always run the shortest/closest to the hing pin one. The higher ones raise the roll center, why you'd want to do that on something with 1 1/8" ride height is beyond me.

brent701 01-09-2012 12:15 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10145624)
Because they always run the shortest/closest to the hing pin one. The higher ones raise the roll center, why you'd want to do that on something with 1 1/8" ride height is beyond me.

HUH?

CraigMBA 01-09-2012 12:21 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10141139)
:flaming: ok my camber links keep popping off.. I am running rpm cups too. I replaced them with brand new ones and same problem.

I think I want to run a captured end link. Does anyone else run these? I need a solution I dnf'd every round and this happens wayyyy too often lol.

Rear or front? If it's rear, that's easy.


Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings (Post 9676093)
You need the following ae parts:
91051-ball cups
91048-ball studs (bk uses the ti nitride ones)
91038- hd turnbuckles 65mm (there is also an ft titanium option like bk is running)

The ball stud is 3mm thread and taller than the std ones, so you need to take into account that when adding / subtracting washers from the inner ball stud.

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/g...waldsc10-2.jpg

It seems like I post this picture every couple of days.

This camber link upgrade is just a durablity upgrade, tie rod / captured rod ends from SC10 4x4 are so robust I doubt you'll ever break them.

In the front, a lot of guys have started using the Losi plastic.

elex300 01-09-2012 08:20 PM


Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 10145664)
Rear or front? If it's rear, that's easy.



http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/g...waldsc10-2.jpg

It seems like I post this picture every couple of days.

This camber link upgrade is just a durablity upgrade, tie rod / captured rod ends from SC10 4x4 are so robust I doubt you'll ever break them.

In the front, a lot of guys have started using the Losi plastic.

Just did my build and before I install electronics I wanted to ask you what advantages are there to putting the speedo behind the battery like you have done? Can you still get enough weight to the rear to keep it planted? Won't that take away from being able to move your battery forward or back or is that the best place for it? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first 2wheel SC.

njnewc 01-09-2012 08:41 PM

I put my ESC in that location, I think it centers the weight more, it protects the esc more from impact and debris, etc... You can still add weight in the battery compartment. I have 1 OZ of lead behind the esc... Also the Viper VTX10 and VTX1 ESC's that I use fit in the compartment with the FT carbon battery strap... I added 1/2 oz to the opposite side of my airtronics reciever, It is pretty even in weight from left to right...

CraigMBA 01-09-2012 08:50 PM


Originally Posted by elex300 (Post 10148135)
Just did my build and before I install electronics I wanted to ask you what advantages are there to putting the speedo behind the battery like you have done?

I assume it gets the weight more in the center, which concentrates more weight around the center of gravity, which I assume makes it start/stop rotation better, but I can't say why Brian Kinwald did it (it's his truck). I only posted it because it's the best picture of the SC10 4x4 rear camber link upgrade I know of.


Can you still get enough weight to the rear to keep it planted?
I'm sure you could if you stacked it. Worse comes to worse, you can attach it to the back of the battery.


Won't that take away from being able to move your battery forward or back or is that the best place for it? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first 2wheel SC.
I think BK has the battery almost all the way forward. In fact, that's the only thing stopping me from setting my truck up like this - I tape in my battery in my carpet car, I don't want to do it in my offroad car.

Here's another picture of it:

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/g...waldsc10-5.jpg

CraigMBA 01-09-2012 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by brent701 (Post 10145638)
HUH?

There is a tall tower, a medium tower, and a short tower, right? All of them give the car a different roll center. Lowering the tower lowers the roll center, raising it raises it. The opposite thing happens in the inside camber link stud, adding shims lowers the roll center, taking them away raises it.

Raising the roll center makes the chassis roll in the corner a little easier, lowering it keeps the chassis flatter. You can read up on it a little more here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center

But to answer your original question, the factory guys always run the shortest tower, and if they don't, they cite it on the setup sheets. The only time I ever saw a taller one cited was on a 4wd.


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