That was one fun race!! The SC10 I think was the coolest to watch.

you may have needed reverse the throtal profile for the new rx. Some of them are different.

questions about inline axles
 

here is a review about the gt2 and the use of the inline axles,
by Mark Thomas Date Added: Friday, December 19, 2008

great truck, the durability of a GT with the handling as good or better than a losi. I used to race the Losi only because we ran short races, now we run 20 minute mains and the GT2 can't be touched. The original GT has a little more turn in because of the inline axles and slightly shorter wheelbase and more narrow trackwidth but the 2 jumps better accelerates harder. the quick change hubs get a little sloppy, but the benefits outweigh the negatives and bearing only cost a buck a piece. The brakes are great and the bigger clutch bell bearings mean they last longer. This is the only gas truck to own for competition.

Rating: [5 of 5 Stars!]


i have used the inline axles on the slash from the nitro stampede and have seen similar results. i didnt want to say anything because i wasent sure if the inline axles made that much of a difference , but did notice it spun out more when turned hard.

This is going to be one fun season! In all classes

Anyone know :confused:who makes the wheel hexes so you can run the 1/8th scale wheels?

New Era sells them.

http://www.myrcmt.com/review/images/...sc10___001.JPG

Do those hexs fit on a 1/8th scale?

here is the link
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi..._id=&part_id=5

No, those are 12mm hexs and allow the use of the Traxxas wheels.

Rims
 

Does anybody know of a beadlock rims that fit the truck..Im not getting the front.... I understand I can run a hex for the rear to fit...but what are u sopose to do about the front spindle? :tire:

It comes with front and rear hexes.

Finally Built!
 

Well, I finally got there - bloody wedding in the middle of the whole process. Read the whole thread, used the shims in the Diff trick, tried lexan and washers on the mudflap trick coloured the wheels black (saved $12 on new rims). No probs with the steering or rear wheels at all. Wired her up with an LRP SPX, LRP 13.5, Hitec Servo and Spektrum Radio. Only real mod is the FT Hinge Pin Brace. Followed a combination of the Kurt Wenger and the stock set up. Diff stills seems quite noisy, but haven't had it driving outside yet. We'll see how seh goes.

A couple of pics below. Body pics on the SC Pics thread.....

So after driving the truck for the first time, I really have a hard time understadning why people say it break so often/easily. Having now said that, I am prepared for breakage next weekend.:sweat:

There's a difference between what a "Basher" considers tough, and what a "Racer" does. ;)

Looks good Sith :).

If you are running on an outdoor, dry track I have a few suggestions. Dremel the tabs off your battery strap so you can mount the battery to the rear of the truck. Use the Gold Front springs with Black Rears (if it's REALLY loose, otherwise leave the Greens). I run #2 Pistons the entire way around with 30 wt. AE oil. Stock shock limiters front and rear. Bones level front and rear; LOWER the rear ride height by 3-4mm if it's really loose.

Dremel your stock tires to add side bite. Cut a groove in the outside lugs as shown.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...0/GEDC0495.jpg

If it's REALLY loose and dry, try cutting them like this (overkill).

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...0/GEDC0496.jpg

Easiest way is to just mount up the JConcepts Goosebumps :D.