The way you blow through rigs and segments of R/C, that doesn't surprise me.:lol:;):p

The SC10 isn't a magic, give everyone some stick and tuning time and it will be a rocket ship. There are already reports of guys who nailed the set up winning races w/ a 2 lap margin

[QUOTE=F N CUDA;5705257]

I reshimmed the one side, 2 shims under the pin, and reused the original gears.

QUOTE]

Thats what I did and it is working out fine. I took it apart again after 6 packs thru it and no "dishing" of the washers. I think it was a matter of the diff being to loose apoun first build. And yes I did have the 4 screws tight. I am sure If you are hearing a grinding noise in the diff you need to take it apart and shim it properly.

Do you pay for my equipment? No! So why the comment? I do buy and sell a lot but I don't see why that concerns you?


I was merely stating what I seen today with my own eyes rather than what you said you have "heard".

Easy bud, just giving you a hard time. didn't you see the :lol:;):p ?

A single race day at a single venue doesn't make or break a design.

No harm no foul. :cool: I was just wondering how your comment was at all relevant to my post. :sneaky:

Again, just razzing you about how fast you go through rigs is all.:lol:

No need to read anything into it.

So where do you get new diff shims from? Do you have to buy a rebuild kit? The old ball diff might find it's way Into my sc10 LOL

Good question.
I took a couple from my buddy who had to buy a set of new gears.

All done!
 

I finished it tonight! It took a while to settle on colors, I finally decided to do Tamiya Racing Green and Gun Metal for the accents. First time I've ever painted a lexan body, very interesting doing the masking and thinking in reverse! Ran the chassis out in the street to test it all out before I got going on the body...it's QUICK! This thing made me smile. It sounded different than what I'm used to, with the gear diff...that's for sure. I like it, though. I didn't encounter any of the nasty grinding or other "red light" sounds that I've read others have experienced, guess my parts all fit right and I used the right amount of black grease.

Here are a couple pictures with the body on and one of the guts.

Had a lot of fun with my first kit build, I can see why people are such proponents of it. I used to build models all the time when I was a kid...this was kind of a blast from the past, for me.

if running for a while is making the diff washer to bevel ..... i wonder if the rubber o rings in the cups of the dogbones are making them going bad prematurly with too much pressure to the diff and gears.

so if I have to shim mine, I would just add a shim where the shims ARE in the diff right? What did you guys use to shim it with? I dunno if I have something THAT thin that will work...

i have but not used ofna nitro clutchbell shimms for the clutchbell.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...him+&search=Go

I got another rebuild kit and used those. the size is 5mm internal and 14 mm external. as for thickness its pretty damn thin.


And the Oring are not causing stain on the diff. its the sun gears expanding out ward towards the hub.causing the washer to dish outward.

[QUOTE=TXGSXR1K;5705315]Which side did you double shim, you only double shimmed one side right?

My LHS doesn't have the rebuild kit ( ASC9829 ) is there another AE part # that will have the same shim?

[QUOTE=ffpm46;5706934]I only shimmed one side assuming I only needed to take out a little extra play.

So I shimmed the first side/outdrive that was exposed when opening the diff.

My shims also came from a new gear set of my buddies.

P. S. All of the pms and orders for the chassis braces have been replied to and confirmed paypal payments will have their orders shipped today!

I will make more today so there will not be any backorder concerns.

Thanks so much for the positive response, I'm sure you will be satisfied with the results, ours are working great.

Craig---F N CUDA