This refers to moving the ball stud on the hub to the outer most hole(towards the tire). Then lengthen the link so that the tires has -1 camber.

Edit: The outer most hole is hole "c". Use the supplied camber gauge to measure the camber of your tire once you have the ball stud in hole "c".

http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/s..._ocrc_2009.pdf

Negative? I don't think so. Its not going to work as well as a T4 but pretty close.

Check the slipper and make sure its adjusted right. Try tightening it first. That 5700 motor is equal to a 9 turn brushed motor and thats alot for that truck.

Very true.
If your biggest worry is about the cost of a set of $16 tires to help the truck handle better this hobby might be too much for your family budget. :)

the sliper is a little tight but does let loose when holding the tires and giving it gas. there is no noise either when i do that. the noise is only when i hold 1 tire and give it gas or when accelerating hard and tring to keep it straight.

I TQ'd my SC10 on its maiden voyage at the track; in the main I couldn't get much traction though so I finished 2nd overall. The Castle 5700 is way overkill for the SC10, I even had my throttle endpoint turned down to 60%. I was running 18/87 gearing so acceleration and top speed was good, but it was the initial punch that really made it uncontrollable. I have to play with shock oil weight, but the front is too soft with 30w, the rear seems nice with it though. For the front I'd recommend 35 or 37.5w as a good starting point.

Check out my previous posts, I had the same issue, doubled up the internal diff outdrive shims and the problem went away...PM me if you need more info.

I am going to do it today. it sound almost like a gear mesh problem. whats funny though is it started after i had run the truck some and not right from the start.

anyone have a link to buy these

A lot of people have this problem. To fix it disassemble the tranny.

Pull out the differential and take it apart.

Take the two small shims that go on the outside next to the outdrives and move them to the inside of the differential on top of the large shims just below the pins.

Assemble the diff and put your tranny back together. :nod:

Great thread!
I'm sure this has been mentioned before, (i haven't read all 900 pages yet) but make sure the 4 screws on the diff are not overtightened. The gears will bind a bit if they're too tight. Same thing with the screws that hold the tranny together... If the screws that go into the motor plate are snugged down too much the whole tranny will bind a little causing problems. A little loctite on the motor plate works good. So you don't have to torque the screws down too much.

I just realized I mixed up my shock pistons oops. Didn't realize they were different.

Are you guys filling you diffs with grease or just coating the spiders? I filled mine but may clean it out and just leave a coating to try to dial in the rear of the truck a little more

I don't even really see where they cost much (if any) more than the stockers.

Goosebumps from Tower: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXHM7&P=7

Goosebumps, cheaper at JC website: http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=300

Slash OE tires: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUWA5&P=7

SC10 OE tires: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXCV2&P=7

They all seem to be about the same price as any other truck tire...

I'm gonna run mine in regular stock truck...LOL I may get my ass kicked, but I'll look good doing it and I won't get hacked as much. :) 17.5, Goosebumps...gonna get a ball diff...just like a T4, only with a cooler body and wheels.

And mudflaps...can't forget the mudflaps. :lol::D

You can buy the J Concepts direct from their website.

well itook it apart. found the large shim that sits next to the bevel gear was cut on one side so it looked like 2 washers when in fact it was just one.