Today I decided it was about time to change the oil in my shocks (they don't appear to be leaking, but its been over a month since I've last done them last). Just a few quick questions:

1. When I dumped out the oil from inside my shocks, it is typically always a brownish color. I'm assuming this is because of clay/dirt that has gotten into the shock oil. Is it normal for the used shock oil to be dirty, or do I have a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed?

2. Also, I am rebuilding my shocks a bit different then normal (stock setup). I am using the setup that Mike Burris posted a few days ago on here (Nismomike). It says to use a #3 piston in the front (same as stock), and a #2 piston in the rear. So, I understand that much. But the setup sheet also say's 5 limiter for the front, and 3 limiter for the rear. What is the limiter? Are the numbers Mike uses the same as stock? I'm sure when I hear the answer, it will be one of those "doh (smack my head)" moments, but I am drawing a blank. Thanks for the help guys!

Buy another gear diff or 3 and fill it with different weight oils. I can guarantee you that on a loose surface, you'll spin out a lot more with a thicker oil diff.

Lake Ober - the limiters are the washers under the piston inside the shocks. Not sure what's 'stock' but I have been running a similar set up lately.

I was wondering the same. I think the limiters actually go under the pistons? I thought it meant bump stops at the time I re-did my shocks so I cut 6 and 4mm length fuel tubing and slid them over the shock shafts. Seems to be better that way, I don't think these shocks like being totally compressed.

Yes, they go under the piston to limit down travel. For the rear you have to have the #0 hole drilled out on the shock tower with the 3 limiters as the limiter make it the same distance of down travel as if you had 1 limiter in the #1 hole. So if you don't drill out the hole and you use the #1 shock tower hole, only run 1 limiter. These are the limiters http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Carrier-Spacer
Mike and I run very similar setups (except springs) since we race against each other on the same track. That setup is based on the Maifield 2011 setup. Which is similar to all Maifield setups with the exception of shock oils.

There is no "correct" answer. It depends on how a person drives and what they prefer as to what works best. Gear oil is cheap. Buy some and try it out and you will know which you prefer. SC10 diff is simple to remove. Try working on something more complicated. :lol: then you will appreciate it.

Ohh.. I thought that may have been what the limiters were. I built my F.T. kit to the specs that are in the manual, and have found the page that shows how many and how to install the limiters:

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7459/94042606.png

So, I currently have 7 limiters installed on the front and 2 on the rear. So, all I need to do now, is to match the amount of limiters on the front/rear to what it says on the setup sheet I'm using. I am running my shocks on the furthest hole to the middle on the shock tower (I believe that is the #1 hole). I currently do not have the "4th hole" drilled, but plan to do that soon. I ran my motor wires through the center cutout in the rear shock tower, so I have to desolder my motor wires in order to take the rear tower off and drill the holes, hahah :lol: Thanks for the help guys!

Oooohhhh!

I can answer this!

Yes it is normal, well at least in normal shock operations. Racing Downhill MTN Bikes I used to rebuild my front suspension and it was typically a brown muddy fluid when ever I rebuilt them. Your dust seals will keep out most of the dust out but some fine particles that stick to the stanchion get sucked under the seal under compression.

If its really bad looks at the shock shaft you might have a nick that is scratching the seals and causing a vacuum.

Wow! I just installed the Avid steering rack and love it! Its so clean and makes steering so much more responsive. I'd say its the best $20 spend in a long time. As a bonus it even looks awesome!

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/IMG_1132.jpg

I do like the look of the AVID bellcrank. However I have the STRC setup with bearings and my son has the AVID. We can't tell much diff between the two. Both are practically slop-free and very responsive.

Yeah, its a nice fit for sure. I took the bearings from the stock setup and they are a direct fit in the Avids. It was literally take the old parts, put them on the new and put back together, very well made.

bellcrank
 

The AVID bellcrank is by far the best replacement unit out there. Just received the front and rear springs. They seem to be much better that the Losi 22 springs I was running. The coils are in a much tighter configuration and give a more refined and stabilized feel.

Does any one know if losi or any other brand makes these cheaper http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...l-Stud-Black-6

.200" ball stub short black

I only need one

I'm sorry to say... but I highly doubt it. Ball stud's are very expensive for some odd reason. I recently had to buy a whole pack of them at my LHS for $7.50 and also only needed one. I just looked to see if the one's I got were the ones you need... but unfortunately they are .400" silver ball studs. If I'd had the right ones i would have been more then happy to send you one in the mail ... sorry :(

I bought an Avid bell crank yesterday and like it a lot more than the STRC rack I had on there before only because there are a lot less moving parts. I wasn't aware the Avid setup didn't come with the connector between the arms so I threw the aluminum STRC connector on and it's solid. A friend of mine had a good idea for getting rid of the last bit of play in the steering by putting heat shrink tubing on the ball ends. I tried it on mine and wasn't satisfied with the results probably because I used different heat shrink tubing. It got me thinking of what else can be done to remove the last bit of play, any good ideas? :)