yep and thats why ill stay a loyal ae customer

I have been running pressure points for the last couple weeks. I am going back to barcodes, they seem to give me more side bite

ok thanks, glad to hear from you again, hope all is good. Your screws have been sick.

The track has a lot of blue and gold, I will just grab gold all around. OH yea

how are you 17.5 timing only guys gearing? i think it is about 25 75 no? All timing or no? help!! lol i never really ran 17.5 much and when I did it was terrible rtr. lol

Are rear sway bars a good idea? I will be racing on an indoor carpet sc track with small jumps. Also what are some good tires for running on carpet?

EDIT: NVM got to looking closer and they are different.

Rear sway bar is a good idea, also some guys are running the rear up front too with some customizing for less chassis roll. I haven't tried running them yet, but I am on the clay though. Carpet has a lot more traction.

Thanks Guy, glad to be back from my 30 day time out...

thank you for the response, i'll run it till it melts haha

this is the opposite experience i have had. my tekins( 17.5, 13.5) has run hot, while the lrp(10.5) I have is ice cold. were talking its seen 140 max thats while shoving timing through it like no other.

So my SC10 has now done about 2 hours worth of track driving and been cartwheeled many a time, node dived plenty of times and even done its impersonation of a turtle many a time.

To my amazement nothing has broken! But to be prepared what sort of parts should I have on hand in case something breaks. Im starting to race next weekend and want to make sure I can make it to the main.

Cloaked- Yeah the only upgrades I did to mine and it has made the truck
more durable for 1/8th scale type tracks with huge jumps is RPM A-arms
with the RPM front bulkhead combined with an RPM front bumper with the GT2 hinge pins.
I highly recommend the RPM plastic over anything aluminum.
It will make the truck not only more durable, but do so without adding too much weight.
Ive ran it like this for several months now and have not upgraded the rear end.
The rear is well protected anyhow because of the big bumper they put on these Corr trucks.
Aluminum upgrades are only for the "Bling" factor.

If you have a locked servo saver you might want to have a couple of extra servo horns on hand. They don't break often but it can happen. If you replace the servo horn with an aluminum one, you will want to have extra caster blocks and steering knuckles because that then becomes the weak link.

Lower arms, ball cups, wheel nuts, and body clips are all good to keep spares of. It's also smart to have some extra bearings for the wheel hubs. :tire:

hey there u guys, i have a small prob that i would like to address with my truck. the truck feels good overall but the steering seems to b a little too sensitive for me like after a turn it still may want to oversteer a little bit. what should i do. i have the latest mayfield setup on it

And once again go to ebay unless you have a local shop that you love! You can find the "chop shop" guys selling things in section, like full front end, full rear end, chassis and bumpers for like 1/4 the price of most shops.

All last week I ordered repair parts to have on hand and I now have nearly two trucks in spares for under $100

I'm running a setup based on the Maifield setup and changed a few things.

• I used my Radio for the first adjustment. I had to run -50 expo to slow down the initial movement.
• I took out one bump steer washer. From .060 to .030, or 1mm to 2mm. This took out the twitchyness I was having on the bumpy corners and corrections after jumps.

Other options that can help; caution that too many changes can totally ruin a setup and one change should be done at a time.

• On the front shocks, move the upper mounting to the middle hole.
• On the front shocks, use heavier oil.
• More negative camber in the front. That will give less side bite.
• Running a less aggressive tire. Sometimes I run a tire that is worn down a bit.

Hope some of those will help.