Originally Posted by Eagletal88 (Post 7513790)

For my next upgrade I am looking at the MIP C-CVD kit.

Any Feedback on this kit?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 7513859)

ThunderbirdJunkie is running old-style T4 CVDs.
As every other old set of MIP CVDs he has run, they've been awesome.

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 7494418)

No, the wheels THEMSELVES don't spin true. Has nothing to do with the tires.

Originally Posted by Markah (Post 7494431)

Why not pick up the bead-locs? They seem pretty sturdy unless your truck is just way too bad. They're also very easy to build/rebuild.

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 7494450)

May do just that... Anybody besides PL to look at?

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 7494527)

OK just said screw it, and bought the PL beadlocks.

Stupid LHS doesn't have them in stock, and they want 25 bucks each pair for 'em and 35 bucks for the body.

Originally Posted by Eagletal88 (Post 7513790)

For my next upgrade I am looking at the MIP C-CVD kit.

Any Feedback on this kit?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly (Post 7513844)

I beleive this is the one in the FT kit. I have them and they have been flawless in the Stock SCT class. I'm running 17.5 so not so much power but not issues. Make sure you get the new ones with the clip retainer. The older ones would loosen up and the pin would slip out and tear up your a-arms.

Originally Posted by Pimpin (Post 7515623)

buy the kit for the T4 that is does not have the C before the CVD like this. "C-CVD" http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...C-CVD-Kit-SC10

Reason:
they use a retainer ring to capture the pin that holds the pivot assembly together. and are VERY easy to break or strip. A fix for those that already have this type of CVD, take some heat shrink and replace the redor white retainer for heatshrink or if you still have the retainer use the shrink tube on top to hold it in place.

Otherwise just save yourself the hassle and DO NOT buy them to begin with.


go for the regular CVD kit as shown here.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...omplete-Set-T4


But as far as the upgrade to CVD's is concerned......WORTH THE MONEY!! i wouldnt run anything less!!!

Originally Posted by Pimpin (Post 7515635)

all you need to do is use red thread lock on the set screw and it will NEVER come out.....much better than those dumb rings.

Originally Posted by Mr.Maim (Post 7515686)

Yikes! Red thread lock? You're right about it NEVER coming out. :nod:

I put red thread lock on something once. Then needed to get it off. Broke two tool tips before having to Dremel the part off. Never again. :cry:

Originally Posted by Zerodefect (Post 7515910)

Your supposed to use heat to remove red locktite. A soldering iron or heatgun should do the trick. I use red permatex threadlock alot, red Surelock if there is a gap between the parts that are being put together.


I made a custom body by pulling the stuffing out of a giant stuffed Skunk toy and stretching it over an old Jconcepts body and tacking it down with CA and Goop.

Like this only bigger:
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...500_AA300_.jpg

Originally Posted by Mr.Maim (Post 7515595)

Just so you know, if you buy ProLine beadlock wheels you have to use ProLine tires... well, at the very least you cannot use JConcepts tires on ProLine beadlock wheels unless you cut out all the sidewall strengthening ribs from the inside of the JConcepts tires. I was going to go the beadlock route too, but cannot because of my tire choice. I brought a set of tires to my LHS and tried to fit them on the ProLine beadlocks prior to purhcase. No fit. No purchase.

Has anyone had results different than mine?

Originally Posted by Mr.Maim (Post 7515695)

Okay, so I'm getting a little tired of all the short course truck bodies and just want something a little different for a few races at the club. Is anyone aware of any other bodies (rally, bug, truck, whatever...) that fit the SC10?

Just curious.