yea i curious about the sc10 rtr too, im wondering if it handles good out of the box or do you have to tune it a little bit ?

i know the tires arent good thats no big deal i can change them , and also put my stock electrics from my slash in it.

RPM ball cups up front, and DuBro Monster Ball Links for the rear camber link
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0/SS851479.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0/SS851478.jpg

It changes roll center and stuff...but ThunderbirdJunkie got sick and tired of popping off ball cups. Even the RPMs did it in the rear.

Have yet to break a front arm, however.

Knock on wood...taking it to the track to play around tomorrow.

Cool, thanks man!

Those will be next on my list.

I just ordered this from amain ST Racing Concepts CNC Machined Aluminum +1° Toe-in Rear Hub Carriers (Blue)

Anyone have a feedback on these???

You can see them in one of the pics ThunderbirdJunkie just posted, and thus far they've been very nice quality pieces.

And enjoy getting your roll pins out of your axles. This would be a good time to upgrade to CVDs at the same time.

I tried to remove them during my last cleaning and failed. I was afraid I was going to break something with as much force as I was putting on them.
I started to think they were soldered or welded or some nonsense. I'm not convinced that they aren't....

Oh, meant to ask this earlier. What is the purpose of the aluminum rear hub carriers? The plastic ones that come with it seem pretty sturdy and I haven't noticed any wear or even a point of weakness in them. Just for show, perhaps?

The stock plastic hubs do not have any toe. The new FT Aluminum hubs from AE provide some toe and larger bearings. Some hop up hubs offer toe with stock bearings like the STRC hubs I'm using. The added toe helps rear forward traction on loose or dusty tracks. This could be considered moot now with the FT toe plate kit that was released. The Bling factor is nice too.

I have the silver ones and they are fantastic. Gained rear traction and not side effects. I like the set screw that holds the pin as well. STRC makes great stuff!

Take the whole hub/carrier off, put it in a small bench vice, and use an old allen wrench and a heavy somethin or other (small hammer, screwdriver handle, etc) to pound it out.

Absolutely! That was good thinking on their part. Make the plastic wear, not the aluminum:sneaky:

The toe plate kit will reduce wheelbase if you go 3.5 or 4 degrees of toe in. The whole arm is pivoting forward. The new hubs from AE will give the same effect while maintaining same wheelbase. Like you said, the new hubs will give you larger more durable outer bearing with the addition of 8 new tie-rod positions.

I agree. I like the new FT hubs and plan to get the 1 degree version for my kit. I want the bigger bearing and the additional camber link positions to play with. I have burned out bearings.

hey guys
i have just picked up a pre loved sc10. am slowly churning thru the 300 odd pages of this thread and trying to take notes on dos and donts etc.was hoping someone could answer a coulpa quick q's for me. what is a good starting point for pinions for a 10.5t brushless? what are good parts to keep on hand initially? is a chassis brace a good idea?
cheers

Get the RPM bumper, it has a built in brace/skidplate that protects the weak part of the chassis. 10.5t is going to be awful strong if you're racing in the dirt. May want to consider dialing it down a LOT and then getting the truck set up, then dial it up and continue to tweak the handling of the truck. This truck needs a LOT of tweaking to get it to handle with the stok 17t motor let alone a BL 10.5t. If you're not racing or are not racing on dirt then ignore everything I just wrote.

10.5 is the motor limit for our class rules here. i am considering going higher to a 17.5 or 21.5. i drove the sc10 with a 10.5 on a high grip track and it was pretty sweet. on a loose surface it was a handful for sure

If you gear the 10.5 properly (with that I mean to around the same top end as stock motor) it's pretty good. When it gets really dusty, the 10.5 can be a real handfull. When that happens, I normally just turn down the throttle epa on my transmitter.

The rpm front bumper is also a very nice upgrade. I can definitely recommend it as well.