If you have stock hubs now it should help a little. You may get just as much from moving the battery back a little.

I run 1* hubs with the 3.0 degree toe block and the FT ballast weight between the trans and the toe block. I have added 1 oz. more weight to the left side to balance the ESC weight and the truck is fairly well ballanced. My battery is a little lighter than typical 5000 mAH batteries. I need more rear traction so I will be going to a 5000mAH 40C battery for my next race.

I run Caliber M4 and they work well on most tracks. I am searching for a better tire for my local track but most tires are not better. I am using the Kinetic ESC which has a lot of features to manage low speed torque and reduce wheel spin. You always need to choose the right tire for the track.

Have you tried M4 Holeshots?
I haven't tried M4 Calibers but the M4 Holeshots were quite a bit better than M3 Calibers on my track.

Good stuff WC and SCO! Thanks!

Hi, guy. what the best bodies for SC10

This one :D It's the J Concepts Raptor SVT.

What is the part#'s for the sway bars for the front and rear on the SC10? Any help would be great. Thanks.

Well went to the SHARC Corr truck Championship this past weekend. I ran a blitz this year and had ZERO luck finding a good setup for it and just didn't fit my driving style. The blitz ran 36's at the same track we had the race at just 2 weeks ago or so. Anyhow Thursday I picked up a FT SC10 and had it built by Friday evening, so I had no idea what to expect. Threw a 17.5T motor for the Open class, geared it to the moon and crossed my fingers. Everyone else ran 13.5's and lower so I was well out powered, but the truck was so easy to drive. 1st round I finished 6th overall and was happy at that point already. 2nd round I made some changes and then finished 3rd overall for that round. Last round made some more changes and TQ'ed the 3rd round overall. I never expected for it to do that well so quickly with this truck. Went into the main qualified 3rd overall. Main started and got into 2nd place and just paced 1st place for a while not pushing it. 1st place then had diff probs and I just put the truck into cruise control keeping some clean laps and ended up winning the race. I was super surprised for 1st time on the track with an SC10 I built the night before and also with only a 17.5T motor in the Open class. I even could have pushed the truck a little harder and gone another .5 a sec faster a lap. The SC10 went 3 sec a lap faster then my Blitz had done. I couldn't believe how awesome this truck drives and performs....simply incredible over what I have been use too. Another AE satisfied customer :nod:

I have searched, whats the fix for the servo saver spring,I ran on mine on carpet offroad and it just gives away,i can hold my servo and turn my wheels still,its tightened all the way down and the threads are holding it? What are most people doing,its the ft truck

Seems you have already stripped the servo savers threads, try gluing it all together or replace ...

Assoicated only makes a rear sway bar. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEAJ1&P=ML

New Era makes a front bar. http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...&part_id=10410

You can make your own front sway bar using parts from the rear kit:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-sway-bar.html

Hmm may try the sway bars and see how that does.

I have decided I am going kyosho shocks, so do I need the RT5 ones or the RB5?

Also on carpet sometimes I have the hardest time steering, it just pushes.. Would gluing the servo saver be the fix? I have tried about everything else.

that could help. If the plastic is stripped though, it won't go together all the way and may cause the steering rack to run the chassis posts where the top plate screws in.
But yes, with the t4 and the sct I always glue it. Just don't hit anything:ha: