I am running the blue springs on the front. It does help some. I am alo running the 1.5* rear hubs and it can still step out. My car has tons of steering.

is anyone using the rpm gt2 rear arms. I got a set but it looks like you have to put the left arm on the right and the right side on the left. So the shocks fit or am I just crazy.

RPM claims they do not work on the SC10, but if you figure out a way, let us. I'd be interested. I love the fronts.

However I can't see it being much longer before RPM comes out with arms specifically for the SC10.

just my 2 cents
 

Take it as you must this is just my opinon... The Sc is based off of the T4 we all know this...when it first came out lipos werent into effect yet...right?

So Now...Most people are running lipos...in which is 4oz lighter.. that what I said 4 ... what have you done to compensate for this Massive weight loss

Me I added the 4oz back to the truck..stepout you say ..My truck doesnt, unless I get stupid with the throttle... I only have 3 months in my truck & Its getting really close to being the Dominate truck..it is as far as Sc are concerened, those darn Slashes in a good drivers hands are hard to beat..


Anyways heres my steup..try it out..Im just a average Joe racer..But it might help you in some way
Rpm A arms
30 degree caster blocks
Gold springs / 25 oil the largest piston hole..I think it #3
3/4 oz around the servo
lipo in the stock battery spot
4oz stacked right behind the battery in the tray(like it was just made for it)
green springs / 30 oil #3 piston
losi 2 degree rear hubs
T4 universals
stock diff with black grease
Goosebumps all around
Novak 10.5


& now for the past 2 weeks I have been playing with my throttles curve so it dont light up as hard when I roll the trigger...Hope this helps someone :D

hey, out of curiosity, what type of tracks do you race on? wet or dry? bumpy or smooth?

All of the above...On clay...the truck likes it better WET...if its dry & dusty...I just dont get on it as soon... I cant really say that... I drift it :D

While nothing will make one of these CORR style trucks totally locked in on hard sandy tracks, there are a few things that help.

First off, a softer rear spring will not mean more rear traction. What it does is slow down the responsiveness of the rear end, making it "feel" like more traction on some very loose surfaces...so you may want to try other things. I would experiment with .5 added toe hubs in back, this helps the most in my experience. You can also move the rear hubs forward for more rear traction.
After, try lighter diff fluid, if you are running 5,000, go to 3,000. If it seems better, try 1,000 next time. Keep in mind this will add wheel spin to the inside rear on corner exit, but it will calm the truck down too. So it is a trade off, like most tuning is.

Hope this helps
...Jim
W.E.D.

It's all in the tires. No amount of suspension compensation can compensate treads... Also, can't expect these things to handle like a T4. It's based off a T4, but the CORR style tires are drastically different...

Speaking of tires (and wheels):

How are the Proline Split-Six? Was thinking about getting a pre-mounted Proline Split-Six Bowtie for my SC10. Is the part of the rim where it mates with the axles for the rear rims beefy (meaning, the drive pins will not tear it up like the original SC10 rear rims)?

Anyone have a pic of the INSIDE of the rear rims of the Split Six? All I can find are the outside pics...

Do you mean the Split six wheels?

I have a set NIP, but I haven't used them yet.

Been using the JConcepts Relux wheels.

well matt I think the bottom line for me is I ran out of talent.

I started with a 17.5 and the thing sucked at Hot Rod. I got it working good enough that I could hammer it like a Slash so in went a 13.5 and to the front i went. a few more tweeks and in went the 10.5.

now I feel like the first night I ran it with the 17.5 and stock tires. I have a Speed Passion 10.5 in it with crazy gearing (7.0 fdr) to get a temp above 140. I think it may be retarded timing? Too much torque, I think thats the first place Im going to look. If I can't find anything I going to change the motor and try another 10.5.

If neither of those work i am going to go back down to the 13.5 or start working with 17.5 again.

i would love for you to drive mine and see what you think. Then i can help you adjust yours to your driving.

cuz lets face it....not every setup works for every driver.

when do you go to hot rod?

ok guys a lil help here.
i want to build a sc10 for roar spec.
here the rules we are using
Drivetrain: Stock diff only. No Ball diffs, lockers type diffs or sealed gear diffs.
Motor: 17.5 Brushless motors and 27t ROAR approved brushed motors are legal. The stock RTR motor is also legal in this class. NO swapping between manufacturers for the RTR motors.
Tires: CORR type tires. Must be treaded, no pin type tires. ie. Goosebumps or Calibers
Chassis & Suspension: To be eligible to run in the Spec class the truck may NOT have any chassis or suspension upgrades (unless specifically noted). For example the Slash truck will be allowed to use the aluminum shock caps...but NOT a complete aluminum shock. The Slash shock tower may be clearanced to allow use of all factory chamber link holes. No new holes maybe drilled. AE trucks must run the shock that came with the truck no factory team shocks.
Shocks: Springs and Oils may be changed
Body: CORR bodies only. The body may not be trimmed above the cut lines. The windows and/or tailgate cannot be cutout. Body must cover the tires.
Radio: Any 2 channel surface radio and receiver may be used. The servo may be changed or upgraded.
Battery: Maximum 6 NiMH Cells or 2s Lipo only. 45c Limit on Lipo batteries.
These rules are intended to help control the costs of racing in this class. If a driver wants to upgrade the chassis, suspension or shocks they will need to run the open class.


ok so what the fast 17.5 i can get? sper/pioion
i have a lrp sxx speed o i will be using.
so what the rules what set up would be a good place to start and if the set up use anything other then what comes in the box can you make notes for me plz i only want to order this stuff once.

what spares should i order right of hand to have?

oh and dont worry if the stuff gone cost me give to me i do not care

oh i have the epic 5000 30c packs who make a 45c that over rated lol

thank porkchop

Thunder Power makes 40c (ROAR LEGAL)
I replaced all my links with titanium
since I'm running onraod with it t4 rear swaybars. Not sure if this is ROAR approved
diff oil leave it stock it works better (black Grease)
gearing on a 17.5 you can go up to 28t on pinion and 75 spur
sc10 CVD from MIP
17.5 motor You will have to ask the local guys at your track
RPM front arms make sure to eliminate the arm binding to prevent intermittent suspension responce. Not sure if this is ROAR approved
Most important is the front chassis brace coz this is the weak link of this truck you can make one yourself or you can buy one. Not sure if this is ROAR approved

The only thing that I have not done on the list is the MIP CVD. I'm using Novak 17.5 motor

Hope this helps.

they are like old associated wheels. Still has holes around the pin slots

I ran those arms on my t4, I havent been breaking the rears on the sc10 so I havent done it yet, you run them upside-down and do a little trimming, it is definetely worth it if you are breaking them...