Regarding the issue with the SC10's rims (the earlier version), has anyone tried to just fill in the four "wells" with CA?

Heard of it, haven't tried. Can't beat JB Weld. Just be sure to tamp it all the way into the holes (I used a small screwdriver) to get them completely filled.

I just got the proline bead lock split sixes and they too have the 4 empty spaces around the pin slots

Its hard to believe the old style wheel is still out there...

has anyone ran the blue front springs on this trk yet. im going to states race here in az this weekend ill let those of you that havnt tried know how it works out

Depends on the track your running whether you use the blue or not. I ran the silver or gold most of the summer but have switched to the blue now that I've gone indoor.

I see alot of people setting these trucks up way too stiff. I run mine super soft and it's dialed!!

maybe the holes in the rims are there for a reason.:sneaky: if you dont overtighten them and check them after every run, you will be fine.

I think the technical term is revenue enhancement. I don't seem to ever experience those "if's" with any other car I have? A T-3, then a T-4 without ever striping a wheel? I have spun three SC 10 wheels, I recovered all with JB but still it's the only car I ever had the problem with.

i have three sets of the original wheel's, I haven't worn my tires out yet though my goosebumps are just down to the bars. I was thinking of the J concepts wheels when i do replace them though.

A design flaw is a design flaw. No one needs to defend it. AE messed up on the diff shimming and the rear rims...

It's not that the rims are still out there (probably still are), it's just these are the only rims I have that came with the kit. Unfortunately, I immediately impulsed bought the SC10 when it first came out, since Hobbypeople had a kick-ass deal!!!

Anywho, I'm still waiting for my CA to dry. I swear, if I left the bottle cap off my CA, it hardens like crazy in a short time, I only have small pool of it in the rims and it's taking forever!!!

Is everyone still running the kit springs? Silver Front and Green rear doesn't seem too bad... Was thinking of going up a notch and use Blue front and Silver rear...

I am, I have looked everywhere else for rear bit and now I am down to springs?

I can't imagine stiffer being better but im going to try it.

try the lihtweight t4 setup on there, it works well, just swap your tires until they grip. just remember, its the same as the t4, it only pushes a little more. any t4 setup will work for the sc10.

go softer springs

My truck steers anywhere I want to go but the rear is always loose.

I have green rear so it's the softest and silver front. I was thinking of going to blue front to even it out a little but I don't need less front I need more rear bite?

Even straight line I don't seem to have the best traction. I was wondering about rear toe an how it effects traction as well as anti squat. I have 3* rear toe but haven't fiddled with anti squat from stock.

I just want to go consistently faster with the SC10 than with my Slash and it ain't happening. Saturday I would have been better in mod with my Slash and it's killing me! maybe I just can't handle the power?

I drove one of the Losi's and it was hooked up the rear just followed the front through the turns.

I know it's faster in the straight and makes a triple the Slash will not so I figure Im losing two seconds a lap in the SC 10 trying to get out of turns with the power on.

its kinda hard for me to compare my shock to most everyone elses since i am using losi shocks at all 4 corners. i really know nothing about associated stuff.

with that being said.....

i run 25wt oil in the rear with 2.75" long white losi springs and black valving.
front i run 35wt oil with 2.75" long white losi spring and red valving.

i seem to have tons of steering and a ton of side bite too. i can toss the rear end around the inside of a corner and stab it coming out without getting out of shape. i run my throttle arc at around -15 with a tweak of -5. That seems to make more of a difference then the setup at this point. i only have 2 months experience with setting this thing up so i am still learning alot.

i have the 1/2 degree racers edge b44 hubs and im going to change those to the 1 degree hub. i also have the 3 degree block with 1 degree of anti squat.

running the ball diff becuase it owns and taking apart my tranny to adjust the gear diff is just stupid and impractical when your at the races. this is my second ball diff in 2 months so i figure about a month of racing....i race or practice about 3 times a week if not more.

i went to a shorter spring but stiffer in the front and felt like i gained a little more rear traction like you had mentioned but it wasnt a whole lot different.

i first had a slash and when i got the sc10 i was a full 2 seconds a lap slower with it.....now i hold the fastest open short course lap time at OCRC and also one of two people to go 13 laps in a 5 minute race. So whatever im doind is working. i was just able to shave .8 seconds off my fastest lap time there this last wed night race night. my goal was to get a 23 second lap time and i made it with flying colors to a 23.3 with a 23.9 same race.

i am continuing to try new setups and i make notes of ALL my changes along with my thoughts on each run and what it could use more or less of. i also have 2 complete sets of shocks so trying new setups couldnt be any easier than bolting them up and testing them. makes things much easier and that much more fresh in your head to compare the setups.

sorry to keep on rambling here but just trying to put as much out there to help you guys out.

next JBRL series you guys better watch out....im coming to take it down. :D