matt told me to buy the cvd's without the red rings, so i bought the other set that comes with the set screws. just put them together and on the truck two nights ago

Man that sucks! Few things to check out... Are you using the crush spacer between your bearings? Sounds like the shaft is being pulled to deep into the cup causing it to rub. Also check to make sure your rear hubs are on the right sides. I have seen this happen and it's hard to notice and causes issues.

I use the AE CVD's with heat shrink tubing over the area the pin goes. It still uses the grub screw the tubing is added security, never had an issue with them rubbing.

And as for the weight of the beadlocks plus tires, they add 1oz per wheel over stock when using the split sixes & calibers. While adding weight is not always a bad thing, but it's doesn't give you the ability to add the weight where you really need it. I race with them, I think they are fine.

And David you don't need the turnbuckles or battery strap, save your money you will never bend one and no one sees your strap. You do need that front skid plate though, out of all that stuff you ordered you missed the two most important pieces. RPM arms & Skid Plate.

I don't know the part number for the MIP ball diff, but these are the parts you need if you get the AE ball diff.

Bearings 3/8 x 5/8 #3976 - $7.00
Trans Case B4/T4 # 9574 - $6.00

Good luck!

I think I know what you saying... I had to use my Dremel to on the A-arm to get it to clear.. I will post a pic in a second to show you what I did...but my MIP's didnt come with the ring...it has the set screw

both of my rear turnbuckles have already bent

heres the pic showing you what I did.....sorry its blurry...I had to use my cell to take the pic

I did dremel a little of the webbing out so the mip cvd would not rub and have been running them for several weeks now. Check to see if axle spacing is correct AFTER wheel is tightened down making sure it's not being pushed back into webbing at full droop. hope that helps

The turnbuckles are a must for racing.

Wouls someone mind posting an "exploded" view of the SC10 - or link for the manual, I bought mine second hand and didn't receiver either. I've looked on RC10.com but cannot find it for the life of me!

Yep... Mine too.

Here's the other thing guys... Yeah.. Some of the items I chose may not be needed, but I look at my hobby as a "no expense spared" kinda thing.

Among the other things that were ordered... I also got Ceramic Bearings, Ceramic Diff Balls, Titanium Ball Studs, Titanium Screws, Titanium Hinge Pins, FT Motor Plate, MIP CVD's,... Just about every hop up imaginable along those lines.

I didn't however get the skid plates or arms... I will pick those up. I've just never really been a fan of the flexy RPM parts. I actually prefer carbon... Which I just put on my SC10.

I don't have a problem with hitting things, so the carbon arms work just fine for me, plus they don't develop slop as quickly as the plastic.

But with so many recommending the RPM arms, I'll pick a set up to try them.

What is everybody recommending for a chassis protector?

I still haven't got a real setup figured out for this yet also... Is the kit build just about right? Or should I make some changes?

Thanks again for all the input! Keep it coming!

We bought the chassis brace from i dont remember his name. he didnt send any stickers with it so i have no idea what the guys company name is. and it didnt come with hardware either.... but it is a nice piece that fits well.

watch out for leaky rear shocks. it they leak excessively then you have a bad shock body. They dont hold the retainer tight enough around the seals and they leak really bad. go for some Losi xxxt/nt shocks, they work and fit well

Now i wouldnt go that far...AE has addressed the problem with a bad batch of shock bodies and it has been fixed, i beleive he mentioned that he was going to get the Threaded bodies...shouldnt have a problem. I have ran Losi cars in the past and have never had a problem with my AE shocks leaking any more than a losi shock would. as long as they are built correctly you will not have a problem with them.

that is not what i have heard from other people. and i have replaced everything on this one rear shock except for the body, and it continues to leak like a strainer. The other 3 shocks on the vehicle are not leaking after full rebuilds

Is it the stock blue shock bodies or the FT Threaded Bodies? I cannot speak of the blue ones because i never used mine as i put the FT ones on right away. if it is the FT one that you are having a problem with call up AE and tell them what the deal is, they should get you hooked up with a new set, i know that they have done this for a few people where im at.

stock blue bodies. I spoke of them because i thought he was still running the stock shocks from out of the box