Hey David,

My honest opinion? I'd ditch the FT Battery Strap, although it's a matter of taste. I would spend my money elsewhere, like on RPM arms or the front brace/skid (see above post).

I don't think you'll need a Aluminum servo saver thumbscrew, but again, this is probably just taste...

Also, instead of the 1* casters, I've read a lot of posts on here to go for the B44 casters, which is, correct me if I'm wrong here ladies and gents, 1.5* (per side, 3* total when both are on). Remember to get the pair of bearings that are oversized (the B44 uses oversized bearings on the outer ones of both sides of the casters).

I'm really starting to consider going for the RPM front and rear arms myself. You just have to buy some GT2 hingepins and you're good, and the fact that there's no spacers for the front uprights (which I've already lost one, they're PIA)...

For tires, you really should look into what your local guys are running. I have a set of bowties which works great, but I hear the new calibers work even better.

Goosebumps are great for looser dirt, but I think for tightly packed clay that are almost always slightly blue grooved, bowties or calibers will work...


Before you mount up your stock tires, sell it off, other than carpet, they are pure junk treads... I use them when I want to chase my neighborhood cat with my SC10...

Tom,
I asked AE on the B44 rear hubs. they are stock. not 1.5 degrees as you hoped they are. they have no plans on making any either. Sorry

ASC7932 -- Team Associated 1.5 Degree Rear Hub Left/Right (GT2)

This is what i have been using, they use the same large outer bearing in the hub and are made for the GT2.

Thanks Matt,

Yeah, that was definately a concern of mine. I knew they were heavier. I wasn't able to find any of the JC wheels at the LHS the other day, maybe I'll just wait and get a set.

I didn't really think about how much the weight will affect the poor little 17.5.

Thanks for the input as well!

I went with the FT strap because I wanted to be able to adjust the bias of the battery without modifying the stock strap. I'm a real stickler for "fit and finish".

Tires can honestly go just about every which way on our track, if they don't water it's Goosebumps only, Bowties if they water, and Calibers if the track has ALOT of traffic and black grooves a little.

I've already got a set of Bowties on JC Wheels... So I guess I need to get a set of Calibers and be ready for anything.

Would you recommend this over the RE 1* Hubs?

Or in addition to so I've got a tuning option?

Thanks for all the input folks!

-David

the ft batery strap has a better tuning aid than the RPM arms.

What about the ASC7367 Rear Hub Carrier, 1.5 deg. toe-in per side. Are they still available?

DavidR
With the ball diff i think you will also need the other gearbox case halfs.
Bob

MIP makes a drop in ball diff just for the Sc10 now. I think its 35-$40.

So could I mount the proline bowtie tires onto jconcepts new rims if I didn't want the red beadlocks proline offers?

Yes u can mount the tires on J/C wheels.
I would trim the foam on the edge to make the tires fit better on the wheels.
I have a set of Calibers mounted on SC10 wheels.

Thanks fatkid24, so are they 1-degrees and not 1.5? I'm wondering if that's the reason why I have a rear sway bar to "calm the rear" down on my B44... Wonder if a rear sway bar would help the SC10... It's the standard T4 sway bar right?

I was always wondering what AE was thinking when they put those nubs on the bottom side of the straps towards the rear, when clearly, the battery cavity can have the battery shift back. I guess you can move the spacer around, but it's not the same as in the B4 and T4 where it goes all the way to the back. Still though, I love their hinged and twist battery strap. I hated dealing with the body clips and thumbscrews like how they have it on the B4/T4 and the B44 respectively...


Personally though, since I'm a basher (itching to enter my first race in 20 years), that I want to spend as least money on these SC machines as possible but still maintaining a good time, which are essentially, good servo, brushless, good radio, good tires.

But I guess it would be different if many of you guys are racing these things... Every bit helps!

they are 0 (zero) T4 / SC10 com standard with 3 (or 4) degrees built in from the bottom plate. So your rear hubs have zero. the only rear hubs that have added toe in are the GT2, but you have to use the GT2 rear arms. I use the STRC 1 degree ones.

I am not using the GT2 rear arms, the hubs work perfectly fine in the stock arms, the only difference is that you cant adjust wheelbase as they are wider.

is anyone useing the MIP CVDs?

Im having issues with the retaining Ring that keeps the pins in. They are rubing on the on the A-Arm and sooner or later they just break off. Am I installing them wrong. I fallowed the installation instructions to the letter.
Has anyone else had this problem. I will try to take a picture and post it here.

i run the ones with a set screw...had one set of thosewith the red ring and they didnt last but 2 weeks......

now the set screw set has been on for months with no issues.