Yes, it was clean and straight forward. Electrics I can't recall what he had.
Tires were JConcepts of course.

I can tell you he did nothing fancy to the truck, it was all driver.

Anymore details about the setup would be hugee! Thanks and yeah i will hold off on the sway bars, none of the top guys run them at the track, they all run SC10s tho :lol:

celt ygpm

Just to let you know, pro drivers set their cars up so they do what they want, not what you want so it may not work for you. They are way better at controlling the car and know how to drive them. It may be hard for you to drive on his setup. I have always made my own setups because I drive slightly different than everyone. Plus, it is fun and pleasing when you get your setup just right.

I agree, but that truck could do no wrong. I have never seen a sc10 handle like that. Tires-Goosebumps ?, inserts ?.

Agreed, still wanna see the set up tho! :lol:

A few hop up questions...

1. MIP CVD's - I'm looking at buying these. I've read conflicting stories that dremeling the arms is required to get the MIP CVD's to fit. Is that true? Are there replacement arms that allow clearance (RPM, ST Racing Concepts, etc)?

2. RC Screwz - I love shiny screws :), any thing wrong with these screw kits? Are they as durable as the stock screws?

3. Alum Upgrades - If I love shiny screws you have to imagine how I feel about alum bling. I've decided on the 1 degree rear hubs, besides those are there any other alum upgrades that are worth it - casters, knuckles, bulkheads, rear brace, front/rear body mount, front/rear shock towers? Anything I should avoid? I want to race so performance edges out blingness (just barely).

Hi Jamescam,

1. I run the MIP CVD's on my SC10 with stock arms. When building mine, I don't recall needing to Dremel anything on the arms. AE #7455.

2. The RC Screwz stainless steel screws should be slightly stronger, but you'd need to compare actual steel grades to be certain -- I have never used them. However, you can chuck up the stock screws and polish them or use titanium screws (which are the strongest). For me the stock ones are fine, but I understand the need for some bling! :)

3. The only two blue aluminum functional "bling" items on my SC10 are the front hinge pin brace (AE #9665), and the finned motor plate (AE #1770). However, I also run the blue titanium turnbuckles (AE #1283) and the hard anodized shock bodies (AE #7412 and #7414). If you plan to race, I'd avoid going too crazy on the aluminum parts -- stock ones work better. Check out http://67.199.85.166/main/maincatego...av=off1.10tnav for the Factory Team parts that work on the SC10.

Good luck!

With the cvd's you will lose steering. Also, the titaniumscrews are actually not that good because the have tendency to bend. Look at your titanium turnbuckles, you probaly have a bented one. It just happens and it will become a problem. To make your car look good, find the countersunk washers and buy countersunk screws. You can get the washers in different colors and they look really good. I bought them in associated blue for my cars and it looks great. As for the upgrades, just have turnbuckles and front bulkhead upgraded. The toe in hubs are useful also, otherwise you will bend the aluminum parts and still have to buy new ones.

red springs up front, silver rear, batery stock location, 1 degree hubs, jconcepts rims and tires, goosebumps, not for sure what oil, and lots of limiters in shocks...the track was not blue groove, its srs, it was wet but dryng out...as for busdrivers setup..the one who finished second..stock setup, jconcepts rims and tires..and as for motors..we all run 10.5 in pro 2:)

What some might be referring to is that the MIP's come close to the arm cross member - very close. Depending how many limiters you have in your rear shocks, they might rub a pinch. With the default limiters in the rear (2) I think, they just clear.

I wouldn't let this defer you from buying them.

I had to dremel out my rear arms on My sc10..I noticed that the carbon arm are a tad thicker then the stockers in that area also..and I did not notice any difference in the turning..:lol:

Team Orion Vortex Brushless ESC
Team Orion Vortex 2009 Edition 7.5T brushless motor
Would this be too much for an SC10?

for the track, that would be a hand full.
for bashing it would be fun.

7.5 is a great 4wd buggy motor!

I would stay around 10.5 or even and 11.5 for loose tracks. But that's me. :)




...Jim
W.E.D.
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