you make some good points but I must disagree that a sway bar changes weight transfer. the only way to reduce weight transfer to reduce lateral acceleration (go slower), a slick surface will do that and you said loose is a poor place to use a sway bar.

Body roll can be controlled and by using a sway bar on the rear more and front grip can be gained by making the weight transfer sooner to outside rear. The sway bar is transferring spring rate from the inside wheel by pulling up on it and pushing down on the outside wheel. This condition would hardly create more inside traction.

Im not saying it isn't letting some guys go faster, I have never had a reason to try it as my truck steers very well and rear bite is what im looking for.

my sc10 took it to the local indoor track

the gear diff has seen better days the truck dose not move when you set it down

anyways here is some pix of it before i totally blew the gear diff apart.

(it didnt like on power landings trying to make a tripple with the sidewinder 5700 on 2s)

pix
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...cedelta001.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...cedelta004.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...cedelta011.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...cedelta012.jpg

All that I would really like my SC10 to do is to not loop out in the corners, on power. The thing seems to have no forward traction and I haven't even taken the stock brushed motor out of it yet. I am up 5w all the way around on the shocks and up to red front springs with cvd's and it STILL has so much steering that if you try to get back on the power mid corner it just loops out. My T4 is no where near this and I guess I really just expected both trucks to handle a lot more closely than they do. My T4? Dialed. My SC10? Not. Help people, please. Without me having to read 250 pages of this thread.

Edit: I am racing indoor on clay and I refuse to run 8th scale tires so I am running Calibers. I know the tires aren't the greatest choice but there has to be some improvement in the handling of this truck, period. Even if
it means going to a ball diff, I don't care.

try racers edge 0.5° or 1° toe-in, aluminum rear hubs ;)

+1 on that no 1/8th scale tires. maybe try a softer compound tire on that clay.

To you first point, weight transfer. A sway bar absolutely reduces weight transfer to the out side wheels. A chassis without a sway bar will roll more entering a corner putting more weight on the outside tires and less on the inside tires. A chassis with a sway bar like you said will transfer spring rate from the inside shock to the outside shock. this higher spring rate will prevent the chassis from rolling as much and transfer less weight to the outside tires, this is basic physics.
You said "front grip can be gained by making the weight transfer sooner to the outside rear". The more weight you transfer to the outside rear the more the car will push resulting in less steering. If you are looking for more rear bite, look at tires first. Then try gaining more weight transfer to the rear under acceleration by increasing front droop and or softening the rear end.
The whole point of a sway bar is to be able to run softer suspention rates without all the body roll. You can controle body roll with stiff suspention but this does not always work in off road.

like its already been said...upgrade to a 1 or 2 degree rear hub.
I did the losi 2 degree hub conversion,rear silver springs with 35 weight oil & a gold sway bar with M3 Calibers on the rear. Also I have added 1 ounce of weight right on the T plate behind the battery. The battery is in the stock location(lipo) with 3/4 ounce of weight around the servo with red springs & 40 weight oil in the shocks with M3 Goosbumps up front. I run 2 degree camber all the way around using a 10.5 motor. I like the setup alot but thats just me, Im running outdoors on clay...loomy & sometimes blue grooved... hope this helps ya some

Try this setup:

Goose bumps on the rear
Calibers in the front
35w oil front, no limiters, red springs, middle tower, inner arm, arms level.
35w oil rear, 2mm limiters, gray springs, middle tower, inner arm, bones level.
30deg caster blocks
rear hubs forward (stock)
rear camber links long
1.5 oz lead against rear shock tower in battery tray
battery back with stock battery strap.

This is the best setup I have used after eight months of racing this truck. The SC10 will never drive like a T4, SC racing is all about momentum and not over powering the truck. A ball diff will not help that much. I have run the losi 2deg rear hubs and did not like them, the stock hubs feel better to me with the right setup.

Quick question guys...about to put an order in on Tower.

18,19,20t pinions good for 87t on 2s Sidewinder 4600?

Thanks fellas! Looking forward to running this sucker :nod:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0/SS851392.jpg

You missed the idea of controlling body roll with roll center?

Weather the body rolls or not centrifugal force will transfer the weight to the outside. Look at an F-1 car very little body roll and yet the inside front tire is often off the ground? Where did the weight go? My SC 10 often carries the inside front. I have traction rolled many times too, How much weight was on the inside tires just before that happened?

There are many way to demonstrate that you are balancing friction ( traction) and gravity to generate lateral acceleration and what happens to the weight when you do.

Take a plum bob and tie it to your rear view mirror and go through some turns, Why does it move to the outside?

Can I use Fuzzy Dice instead of the Bob plum..... :lol:

I am agreeing with most of what havatitan is saying about the sway bar. in my eyes the most effective use of the sway bar is to use it for reliable rear traction when on power, usually out of corners. you may, however, use it for different purposes

taking a few physics courses opened my eyes to how this stuff works. the effect of cornering force you are speaking of is due to centripetal force, not centrifugal.

damn spell check:flaming:

I just like saying plum bob.

Yes, you can control body roll to a point with roll center, also with spring rate, also with shock oil, But the discussion is on the effects of a sway bar. You can not compare F1 cars to an off road truck, thay are two totaly different animals, with a totaly different set of track conditions to deal with. When I say sway bars controle weight transfer, I did not say it eliminated it, that is not possible. I am not an expert in vehicle dynamics, but I do know the effect a sway bar has on an offroad vehicle. Adding a sway bar will reduce weight transfer and friction to the outside tire thus creating less grip in a corner. F1 cars control weight transfer with very low ride height, very stiff suspention and roll center settings. If you raised the ride height and put soft suspention on a F1 car it would roll in the first corner. If your sc10 is traction rolling and lifting the inside front, don't you think your truck is transfurring too much weight to the outside tires?
If your truck was not transferring so much weight to the out side in a corner the tires would have less friction (traction), and slide instead of flipping over.
This can be accomplished with tires, stiffer suspention, sway bars, ride height and to a lesser degree roll center. Like I said I'm know expert, just conveying my 15 years experience in off road racing.