Why are you guys arguig about it. It works. That's final. All you guys need to know is that it transfers weight. Think about it like this on a real car. They have sway bars too, it has to transfer weight to the inside or the car would flip because for all of that weight.(picture this with a mini van). The whole piont behind the sway bar on a real car is to transfer weight and stop roll. No move on to bigger and better things like tires or something, they are way more important.

What tires do you guys use for a high grap track like clay or carpet. What inserts and compounds?

if one side of the suspension is compressed, one end of the bar is lifted. The other end will also go up, pulling the other side of the suspension up also

How far and how strongly the other side will be pulled up depends on the stiffness and the thickness of the bar used:

With the anti-roll bar however, the suspension on the inside will be compressed,

But with the anti-roll bar, some of that torque is absorbed by the anti-roll bar, and used to compress the inside suspension


I don't know how much clearer it could be:confused:, that's four times in the small part you posted.

those four lines you copy pasted are the definition of what a sway bar does. I dont see anything wrong with those sentences. what are you confused about?

Now you stepped in it too. The entire discussion to this point is about what is transferred where.

You can't transfer weight across to the inside of the car from the outside by using a roll bar, it's physically impossible. You can transfer spring from the inside to the outside and hold the outside up while compressing the inside.

If in this process you effective lower the ride height of the rear more weight will transfer from the front to the rear.

That is the only point I am disputing, I think on every other point there is agreement.

what is this spring you talk about? if you speak of upward force on the arm instead of 'spring' then you have it backwards.

OK so if you agree with what the roll bar does do, transfer spring from the inside to the outside by pushing down on the outside and pulling up on the inside where is all this weight that is allegedly being transferred to the inside coming from?

The assumption of weight being transferred inside being in direct opposition to what the bar is actually doing, pulling up on the inside wheel and pushing down on the outside wheel.

Without moving the CG of the car it isn't possible to "put more weight on the inside". Lateral acceleration is determining where the weight is being born, to the outside.

the spring I speak of is the inside suspension spring, the one the bar is pulling up on and transferring that load to the outside spring.

I have M3 Calibers, can't get any softer. Thought about the Goosebumps, might have to give them a try. Anybody mounted a set up on PL split six wheels? PL claims that only their tires will work so.....??

Put my 4* toe block in out of my T4 tonight. I don't care for the hubs. Usually just run the B44 hubs on all my 10th scale AE stuff. Found some difference but not all that I was looking for. Went to gold front springs too, little difference there. Only ever tried the softest rear sway bar and didn't notice much difference there either. I was thinking that putting a sway bar on it wouldn't allow the tires to bite anymore than they already are, in the corners, so I didn't go any further there. Don't want to get in the middle of the roll bar pissing match we have going here though......... LOL!

Correct, I'm not a team driver, but physics is a topic I know much about.

A sway bar does NOT transfer weight to the unloaded "light" side of the car - that is physically impossible. Like it or not RC cars obey the same physical rules as any weighted mass on a planet with gravity.

Sway bars simply limit the amount of body roll (weight transfer) from the light side (inner) to the heavy side (outer) of the vehicle when rotating through a turn. It simply offers torsional resistance to inertia by way of a steel bar. The heavier gauge the steel bar the more resistance.

There is a big distinction between "transfer" and "resistance." They are NOT the same. You cannot interchange these two terms.

I'm not going to tell you not to discuss it. For one, it's not my right, for two, you should until you understand it - it will help you better tune the handling characteristics of your car.

If someone finds sensible discussion distasteful, then don't read it, this is what forums are for.

Thats some funny stuff there. I posted my first post to explain the handling changes it makes. Thats all you need to know at the track. The theory behind it is to confussing to worry about at the track.

But I will post my 2 cents just for kicks, Sway does lift the inside tire, does not add traction to inside tire, it does let more droop be used with out traction rolls.

What size nut driver do i need for the wheels. Yes i know dumb question but i have all the other tools haha

3/8 for the rear and 5/16 for the front ITBJRC...

i have been searching for a lttle now what is everyone doing with the stock tranny? are you guys switching to ball diffs? or keeping the stock one in?

THanks! I just got my sc10 today. It already has the ball diff installed i hear its the smoothest....i have had a slash, blitz and now the sc10 (with all the right mods), i know its going to be the best hands down!

T-birdJunkie has not driven his yet, but he built it with the gear diff. Thought seriously about raiding the parts box for a GT/T3 ball diff, but really...he's getting too lazy to care about adjustments :lol:

Figure some 3,000wt fluid will be more than enough