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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

smokinu 01-05-2010 01:46 PM

dont put any wt oil in there maybe some diff greese just to get the gears wet

but i tried 1000wt all the way up to 5000wt

the car never diffed out it was like a limitied slip

and after about 10 packs the oil is gone anyways.

just use some red mip grease
that seems to work great for me.

offtraxx 01-05-2010 02:12 PM

depends on the track. we run a carpet indoor track with jumps for winter. the 1st place guy every week is running 7,000 wt diff oil. the 2cd place guy is running ae black grease packed full. I had 50wt shock oil and was better than it has been, but not good enuf. I went to 7,ooo. I think clay should be simalar, loose dirt??

tom_chang79 01-05-2010 08:04 PM

Does anyone know if AE will send you a replacement rear rims/tire if you have the older style rims? Such as sending it in and they in turn send you the updated rim and tire (since the old rims and tires are glued).

:confused::confused::confused:

afonsospt 01-08-2010 07:53 AM


Originally Posted by offtraxx (Post 6810981)
depends on the track. we run a carpet indoor track with jumps for winter. the 1st place guy every week is running 7,000 wt diff oil. the 2cd place guy is running ae black grease packed full. I had 50wt shock oil and was better than it has been, but not good enuf. I went to 7,ooo. I think clay should be simalar, loose dirt??

You run carpet indoors.Which tire work best on that surface?

rcman1993 01-08-2010 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by afonsospt (Post 6824046)
You run carpet indoors.Which tire work best on that surface?

I run on carpet. We run stocks on back and goosebumps up front with hard inserts.

offtraxx 01-08-2010 12:44 PM


Originally Posted by afonsospt (Post 6824046)
You run carpet indoors.Which tire work best on that surface?

stock sc10 tires are the best. even a few blitze racers put sc10 tires on. stock slashes are a close second.
I tried goosebumps on the back (old style stockes striped out) but the were garbage. picked up all the loose fibers and had the traction of a slick.

Zerodefect 01-08-2010 01:36 PM

Y'all are on the right track. But a sway bar deosn't lift the inside tire. Lifting the inside tire would do nothing. The inside shock spring is pressing down on the bar, the bar then pushes down on the outside arm until the arm comes up so far the bar bends.

It is transferring some of the inside springs force to the outside arm to help reduce roll, allowing the car to use soft suspension without excess roll.

Side affect is it stiffens suspension response to a bump that only hits one side of the truck. It may lift the inside tire when you use a real stiff one and play with it on the bench (most visible in 1/8th buggies with real stiff bars and real soft springs), but that isn't what its going to do on track.

And again the Sc10 is based on the T4. If you put a 225 gram weight ontop of the t's body it'll need a sway bar as well. it's a must have tuning option.

balistic 01-08-2010 01:49 PM


Originally Posted by Zerodefect (Post 6825370)
Y'all are on the right track. But a sway bar deosn't lift the inside tire.

I like to think with what you can demonstrate. I like the 1/8th scale because it is much easier to see. Assume a right turn with the left wheel being the outside wheel. Pull up on the outside wheel and see what happens to the right side wheel?

What did you see? did the inside or right wheel lift? What caused that?

The roll bar resisting being twisted and transfers load to the inside suspension and PULLS IT UP, effectively lifting the inside tire.

ollie 45 01-08-2010 03:57 PM

I just put a speed passion 7.5 motor in my SC10 and was wondering about gearing. Does 87s and 19p sound about right? I want to try this motor even though it will probly be too much, but the truck is dialed and I know I could use more than the 13.5 that was in it.

Zerodefect 01-08-2010 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by balistic (Post 6825447)
I like to think with what you can demonstrate. I like the 1/8th scale because it is much easier to see. Assume a right turn with the left wheel being the outside wheel. Pull up on the outside wheel and see what happens to the right side wheel?

What did you see? did the inside or right wheel lift? What caused that?

The roll bar resisting being twisted and transfers load to the inside suspension and PULLS IT UP, effectively lifting the inside tire.


On my 808 with the stiffest bar and the car near ride ht, the inside wont begin to lift until the car is way beyond its normal amount of roll. Nitrobuggies have very stiff bars, lifting the inside at extreme levels of roll is a SIDE AFFECT, not the purpose of the sway bar. if you look closely that bar is seriously bent and the outside arm is pushing down hard long before the inside arm comes up. The amount of force required to compress the outside enough to lift the inside would lift the entire car off the track. So like I said, you'll only see this on the bench, not on the track.

An Sc10 or B4 will not see this lift problem with thier softer bars. Nor will most any other car. So look again and think backwards.

The force of the inside spring holds the inside arm down. If we connect the arms with a spring that has a fulcrum in its center, when the outside arm is compressed it will try to lift the inside arm like your saying, but the inside shock spring is stronger than a NORMAL bar. So the weight of the inside arm and its spring is applied to the outside arm pushing it down.

We are subtracting force from the inside (lifting) and adding it to the outside (pushing down). The pushing down is what we want, the lifting of the inside isn't supposed to happen. Because the inside is barely on the ground there is very little weight on the inside compressing it. So we have excess spring/preload on the inside, the swaybar sends that over to the out side to be used to minimize roll.

THE PURPOSE OF A SWAY BAR IS TO TRANSFER THE INSIDE SPRINGS FORCE TO THE OUTSIDE ARM, PUSHING THE OUTSIDE ARM DOWN. Thus minimizing roll.


The point of the sway bar is to reduce roll to keep all the tires on the ground. Who would want the tires to lift off the ground. :weird: It's supposed to push the outside down, not lift the inside up.

Unfortunately these forces are similar and can in extreme cases lift the inside tire if the sway bar is stronger than the inside spring. It can also limit inside droop which can be harmful. But that is not the MAIN idea of a sway bars job, just side affects we need to be knowlegable about in desighning race car suspension.

Google Paul Van Vaulkenburgs's (true spelling not remembered but you'll find it) race chassis dynamics book. A facinating read.

balistic 01-08-2010 07:26 PM


Originally Posted by Zerodefect (Post 6826486)
s.
If we connect the arms with a spring that has a fulcrum in its center, when the outside arm is compressed it will try to lift the inside arm like your saying, but the inside shock spring is stronger than a NORMAL bar.

So you got the point of the bench demonstration:nod:



Originally Posted by Zerodefect (Post 6826486)
We are subtracting force from the inside (lifting) and adding it to the outside (pushing down). The pushing down is what we want, the lifting of the inside isn't supposed to happen.

Yes it is; III. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.



Originally Posted by Zerodefect (Post 6826486)
THE PURPOSE OF A SWAY BAR IS TO TRANSFER THE INSIDE SPRINGS FORCE TO THE OUTSIDE ARM, PUSHING THE OUTSIDE ARM DOWN. Thus minimizing roll.

never a point of contention.




Originally Posted by Zerodefect (Post 6826486)
Google Paul Van Vaulkenburgs's (true spelling not remembered but you'll find it) race chassis dynamics book. A facinating read.

I have it and others.

Gilley11 01-08-2010 08:18 PM

You two are making my brain hurt. Next time just run more internal limiters:ha:

balistic 01-08-2010 09:26 PM


Originally Posted by hot rod rc (Post 6826956)
You two are making my brain hurt. Next time just run more internal limiters:ha:

I never seem to have enough time to test. I make a change based on what I thought about the last race and run that for the next. Not a good method but when I get to the track it always seems ore important to be able to drive what I have and get the track time than to take time to make to changes. It just takes me longer to figure out a good setup but I work way to much and my wife doesn't seem to understand how important a practice day is:lol:.

to your point that would be the better choice on a rough track?

z50king 01-08-2010 09:50 PM

zerodefect, ohhhh we are all seeing the same thing differently

ballistic is not meaning that the bar lifts the inside wheel off the ground. he is saying that the bar is just lifting on the arm, not picking the tire up off the ground, but rather providing the inside arm with a force pulling it upward, making it easier for the weight of the car to compress the inside spring.

transferring 'spring' from the inside to the outside is the same as transferring the opposite of 'spring' from the outside to the inside. we are seeing these differently, but they are the same thing

jamescam 01-09-2010 09:58 PM

New TI Nitride Ballstuds for the SC10 from AE, anyone know how many of each would make up a full set?

http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=4006.sc10x
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=4006.sc10x
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=4006.sc10x
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=4006.sc10x
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=4006.sc10x


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