talking to my local guys might be an issue,,lol deployed to afghanistan at the moment lol,,,,

Thats odd, according to our commander in chief you are all home from afghanistan. Lies!
As far as mod, I would look into 7.5-8.5 range. I run a Fantom ION3 8.5 with mod 13mm high torque rotor and really like it. Its the same as a Trinity D3. I just put a Reedy Sonic 13.5 in my B4.1 and its a really nice motor. I bet the 8.5 sonic is awesome.

My ball diff feels like gravel after a few practice runs, was butter smooth after I built it following racer53's vids. What did I do wrong?

Is it the very first time you've ever built that ball diff (were all the parts brand new), or were you just rebuilding it? Also, what kind of balls are you running in the diff? thrust? From what your explaining, I would lean towards the fact that one or more of your diff balls has a flat spot... especially if you are just using the stock steel ones. Also, I will say, when you first build the diff, it is always gonna be extremely smooth... but then after a run or two it won't be quite as smooth (just from my experience). However, even after everything sets and wears together, it shouldn't feel like there's gravel in it. I also use the same set of videos to rebuild mine, and it always turns out excellent... and last's for about 1-2months (depending how much driving I'm doing.

LMAO i wish i was at home lolololol but some one has to be over here right..

If the ball diff slips in the least little bit, it will make a mess of itself. Sometimes its a bit tricky to find the correct setting for diff tightness. You might have been slipping a bit during your practice runs. Ceramic thrust balls are a nice upgrade to help the diff last longer. Talk to F18engineguy. He sells them on here for pretty cheap.

Yes thanks, I thought it was pretty tight, but I could have been wrong. I am going to order up some ceramics, but going to try a rebuild with the spare carbide's I have for now.

That's what I use. Carbide for diff balls and ceramic for thrust balls. Still smooth and tight after a month.

under those conditions I would probably run goosebumps in the rear. Maybe int he front too, or some carvers if your track allows ribbed front tires for sct (i think roar frowns on that)

If it starts to tack up after some rain badlands are good when you need to sling dirt to get traction and are self-cleaning.

No roar rule here, I could run paddles if I wanted too :lol:

I have goosebumps on the front of my stock SC10 already, but with worn bowtie in the rear.. I will keep the goosebumps only then

On the SC10FT I'll keep the Subcultures tires in the rear. I have the stockers in the front so I hope I'll get enough turning.

I need both trucks as my gf drives with me so I might just need a set of rear tires finally. Maybe some fronts to replace the stockers idk

Are the carvers easy to drive?

Been away from SCT for a while. Is anyone using shorty lipos with the SC10 successfully?

Stay safe mate, my best mate is a Sapper in the Australian Army 2nd Combat Engineers, he is over there as well atm dunno where abouts though.

He better come home though he is supposed to be my best man!

+1 on the goosebumps, run the stock fronts and goosebump on the rear on the North Texas red dirt track

Are they really $25 a set? I can get Kyosho springs cheaper

Thank you for being there protecting us do we can do cool shit like race RC cars