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I am running the Novak GTB SS esc, and a 13.5 Novak Ballistic motor. I am sure you have seen mine in action at LA Thunder, and RC Fun. I have not adjusted the timing or anything in it, and it runs great with plenty of power. I take it, you'll be racing with us next year huh? More people the better.
Stephen (Nuclear Banana) |
Originally Posted by ~Driver~
(Post 6727039)
Thanks for all the replies. :) I just found out that the tracks around here are running ROAR rules next year. So I'm limited to a 13.5 What esc/motor combo do you recommend? Thanks again.
But I thought ROAR was using a 17.5 Brushless or 27 Turn Brushed Rule? Are they adding a MOD class that allows 13.5? |
Originally Posted by ~Driver~
(Post 6724250)
I learned a new word (for me) today. Neodymium! :lol: Ok, so it's obvious I'm new to the electric seen. I'm not new to racing though, I've been racing 1/8 scale buggy for about 10 years now and mini late model for about 1year. These short course trucks look like too much fun and I also like watching the real deals tear it up on tv. I just ordered an SC10. I've read back to page 116 so far. Lots of helpful info. My question is. Can some of you post what esc/motor combo you are running, and what you do or don't like about them? I guess that's more than one question. Anyway, I'm in the market and would like to get a general consensus. Thanks in advance.
ESC = LRP SPX Motor = Fantom ION2 17.5 Gear Diff with 5K wt oil. Green Springs Rear 35wt oil Silver Springs Front 45wt oil All The factory teams parts installed. I was one of the very first to have the SC10 and so far its the best off road Truck i have owned. The only think i would change would be the arm material i would make it a little softer so it flexes a little instead of breaking. make sure you install some type of chassis brace also. |
Originally Posted by DavidR
(Post 6727239)
Not to doubt ya or anything... Just curious...
But I thought ROAR was using a 17.5 Brushless or 27 Turn Brushed Rule? Are they adding a MOD class that allows 13.5? |
Originally Posted by Maxxican
(Post 6727648)
I run my SC10 in Our ROAR SCT Class here is my basic setup:
ESC = LRP SPX Motor = Fantom ION2 17.5 Gear Diff with 5K wt oil. Green Springs Rear 35wt oil Silver Springs Front 45wt oil All The factory teams parts installed. I was one of the very first to have the SC10 and so far its the best off road Truck i have owned. The only think i would change would be the arm material i would make it a little softer so it flexes a little instead of breaking. make sure you install some type of chassis brace also. |
The FANTOM ION2 is basically a re-badged Duo2 its a great motor and with the timing adjustment it is very smooth. the SPX boost kicks a$$. I have it geared nice and low to be punchy in the infield and the boost kicks in about a 1/4 of the way down the stright so no one pulls on me on the straight.
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Curious, what are you gearing yours with the 17.5?
Mine is currently geared with a 78/26 Spur/Pinion. I had a 78 tooth lying around, so I wanted to put it to good use. I want to preserve the 75T... My temperature comes off pretty good, it's a lot cooler than with my 4600Kv even when it was geared at 87/17 with that motor... I don't have the fancy SPX in mine, but once I adjusted the "punch control" in my Hobbywing to Aggressive (Profile 3), it was pretty good. Ofcourse, I can't expect it to be spinning away like a 4600Kv... The 17.5 is much lower in Kv compared to the 4600Kv... Probably like in the 2000-Kv ish if you were to convert "turns" to "Kv" rating??? |
Stephen, yes I will be running with you all next year at LA Thunder and RC Fun. I think I'm going to get the Novak GTB SS esc and 13.5 Novak Ballistic motor. I want to at least be competetive, ya know? What's the optimal gearing for this setup? What temp is your motor showing? For batt, what burst would you recommend? Thanks a bunch I'm learning alot here. :)
DavidR, I'm not sure. That's just what I was told by a local track director. It may be something new for 2010. Don't quote me on that though. I'll try to find out. Maxxican, Thanks for the setup info. I appreciate it. |
I'm doing an order after christmas, getting alot of spare ball ends, foam dust covers, o-rings, screws, and some new a-arms and an rpm chassis brace/bumper. Any recomendations on what else to get?
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Originally Posted by MonsterBull
(Post 6728930)
I'm doing an order after christmas, getting alot of spare ball ends, foam dust covers, o-rings, screws, and some new a-arms and an rpm chassis brace/bumper. Any recomendations on what else to get?
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Originally Posted by hot rod rc
(Post 6729252)
cvd's and a spare steering rack (strips out) a battery strap as to locate battery for better traction/steering
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Originally Posted by MonsterBull
(Post 6729598)
an alumanim steering rack be good if i could find one? The battery straps are price, and you can modify the stock ones to hold a 6 cell anyway, can I. I made a battery strap in a cad program, but its way to hard to hand cut, and i dont have access to a cnc machine or waterjet. what cvd's are the best going?
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
(Post 6731531)
The cvd's that associated sells...they are made by mip. the new mip stuff has a ring on it to keep the pin in, but this can rub on the arm during travel. you can accomplish the same thing with a piece of heat shrink.
It's an easy fix, but why bother when the standard MIP's work so well? -David |
quick question.
is 100,000 wt oil to much for the diff? i'm running a carpet track with a 4600 cc system. |
Originally Posted by offtraxx
(Post 6732053)
quick question.
is 100,000 wt oil to much for the diff? i'm running a carpet track with a 4600 cc system. 2000 or less in the Sc10. heavyier shock oil like 60wt is about the same as 2000 in a straight line and you get more side bite. Right now I'm running 35 wt. |
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