[QUOTE=jordzan;6424786]Gday Fellas I just got stuck on my SC10 build and after searching through this thread i havent found anyone to have the same problem. Any help or ideas to try out etc would be greatlly appreciated, it's my first kit build tho im not new to r/c.

cant seem to attach the motor plate .. the 3 screws with washers that come through from the other side and look like there meant to grab the plate are a smaller diameter than the plate holes. Page 8 Step 7/8 ... the bolts are 6928 4-40x1 schs and slide cleanely through the motor plate holes.

i tried x1 1/4 and 3/4 sizes up and they dont grab ethier, if the screws get much bigger im not sure they will make it through the transmission casing to the motor plate ethier way.[/QUOT

Man.. thats Sucks
there are 4 screws that should be the same size in thickness & 1 alittle longer than the 3, if they dont screw in the plate, something is wrong..like the holes you are saying are punched to be big.
Good luck ...hope that helped yas

I never take anything I read like that at face value. Everybody has a different skill/knowledge level. We were talking about that last night, how we'll see people flaming POS engines, etc. that I have 5 gallons through with no issues. There's always a chance that someone had a defective part too. I'm going to build some 7 cells up before our next race, I'll let you know how it goes. I wouldn't run 7 cells without hard wiring the motor and putting on different battery connectors though, too much resistance there. I didn't solder inside the ESC case on mine, just took off the motor connectors and soldered the wires together. Pretty sure soldering inside the case would void your warranty.

Tom Chang, maH rating doesn't have anything to do with smoking motors, unless people are just running too long because they have more capacity. The voltage on the 3300's wasn't that much higher than the batteries previously. If you didn't run that motor too long and it smoked, it was probably just time for it to smoke.

Not much. I think all the kits come with the KMC wheels, and if you have the old style (mine did) they can strip. Easily fixed by putting some JB Weld in the holes in the wheels next to the drive pin slots. I've had no issues. You may get a few extra shock limiters with the kit, that's about it.

Bumpy, I haven't looked into the bead locks so I don't know if they'll fit on the stock AE wheels. If they will and you want to run the stock wheels, run piano wire instead of the roll pin on your stub axles. I think it's 5/64", take your car to the LHS with you to be sure. Cut pins from the piano wire and they don't break. Been doing it for years on every AE car I own and have never broken one. The pins will fit loosely, so be sure they don't fall out when you take the wheels off. I keep a few spares in my box just in case.

Never heard of it. Sounds silly, but are you sure you have the plate oriented properly and you're screwing into the right holes? There are multiple holes in the plate and the way it fits to the tranny is kind of counter-intuitive. There's not a lot of thread sticking out, I always put a small dab of Loctite in the holes on the plate before I screw them in.

if its not easily threaded in, give AE a call and get a new motor plate. They have been slipping up on packaging quality a lot. But, they will definitely get you back up to speed if you give them a ring.

im looking to buy hex and nut drivers soon. what sizes do i need for the sc10?

i cant find in the manual where it says what sizes all the screw heads and nuts are

hey z50, it's on page 2 of the manual, in the "tools" section.

It's interesting to note that the little counter-sunk screws used in the differentials are metric, 1.5mm.

Anyways, in case you don't have the manual handy, here are the sizes:

0.050", 1/16", 3/32", 5/64", and 1.5mm

The standard sizes are the usual bunch for AE vehicles. The 1.5mm size used in the diff is just a bit awkward...

What type of hex drivers are you planning to buy? Save yourself some trouble and buy a good quality set. A quality set will be the last set you'll ever need... I personally prefer MIP/Thorp drivers. Others swear by Hudy stuff. The AE stuff isn't too bad either...
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I have a question. What size bearings do you need to replace those bushing used in the steering cranks? I'd like to replace those copper bushings with some good bearings to prevent the buildup of slop that will eventually happen from wear...

I am looking for the part numbers or links to get the chassis brace and everything I need to run a ball diff. thanks.

there are several chassis braces, I have the cuda. MIP makes a drop in ball diff.

I can't find the ball diff in stock anywhere. Do you know who has it in stock

Some SC10 paint to brighten up the thread, :).

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2117/wed100509004.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/909/wed092109007.jpg

...Jim
W.E.D.

We just ordered 3 braces. I don't remember the name of the company but I'll get it to you when they come in. They used to make stainless and black, but now only stainless

i did see those listed, but im also wondering about the nut drivers i need. i know the shock mount nuts are 3/16, but are there others? like the front and rear wheel nut sizes

im going to buy good tools at my lhs, because i have some money right now to do so with

I'm digging those paint schemes.

How do you differentiate between old and new style wheel? I just got my kit and yes it comes with KMC wheels, they still got those 4 holes in them. :weird: