Can you explain why having a metal gear case makes this claim possible over the plastic gear? Im not trying to be a jerk here or anything im just trying to figure out how just by going to a metal gear casing that it would prevent ever having to rebuilding the diff. I have a sc10 that im still looking to put on the track and you guys talking about having to rebuild these diffs left and right is racking my nerves. I run a B4 really hard and it has a ball diff that will last me at least a month or so of racing, but its also built correctly and checked everyday before I run, and the slipper is reset before it makes it on the track on a raceday to ensure its longevity. Knowing the construction of a gear diff, this kind of work shouldn't be necessary and a gear diff shouldnt need a rebuild unless it gets dirty or stripped out from overreving it with too much slop, and im gonna go full circle in that Id like to know how having a metal gear casing is supposed to remove any of that diff maintenance especially when it is just as prone dirt as the regular one.

Im going to chin in on this to state the obvious, Some of the trouble with the stock diff and shimming is due to the plastic flexing. The steel sides and aluminum gear will not have that problem and therefor the spider gears should last longer, also they will not have to be (the extra shims) preloaded and that will help wear too.

However the oil will not last forever so there will still be maintenance or tuning.

Thank you, now that makes sense!

I ran my rtr wednesday night with a month old duratrax 7.2v 4600mah. It was about 60 degrees F. Running a deans plug on the battery to esc. I got about 3 5-7 minute runs out of it. The hottest th motor got was 140

I run a track power 2S lipo 4900 on my 2 trucks, stock 12T Titian & a Novak 10.5 & get a 10 minute run easy for the Heat

I recharged the battery and got a 25 minute run before I stopped driving when I thought I had gone long enough. The motor temp coming off was 180. The battery was not dead. And I forgot to say that this is a nimh 4600 pack

what are the ideal temps for the stock motor and esc

That's one of the mysteries that I have, how are people running anything greater then a 3300mAH and getting away with the motor/ESC heat issue?

I smoked my revenge of monster motor after I ran the 3300mAH NiMH for the first time four years ago...

Wednesday it was pretty cold, about 55-60 degrees that night. The 140-150 temps were coming off from 5-6 minute runs, with the esc at about 95-105 degrees. Shawn drove it really hard and fast for about 10 minutes at it ended at just over 200, but even he said he was running pretty hard. The 20 minute was at about 1030pm so the air temp was the coldest, and it came off the track at 180 even with the esc at 110.

I went back today from 4-7 pm and the Air temp was about 80. I was defineately driving faster and harder because this was my second time driving the sc10. I did not have a temp gun but it I know it never got above 200, because I know what 200+ feels like. The longest I went for was 12-13 minutes, with a few slow laps or stopped waiting for people to drive with

I just got a 7 cell Nimh 5000mah battery for my SC10, I read on the Team Associated website forum that someone had burnt up their stock motor with that combination. I s anyone else having that problem?

the answer to your question is just above, big gearing and long rung times are how you burn stuff up.

Any parts diff between the Kit version and rtr?
thanks

I have brand new in the package the shocks and the transmission from my kit sc10. Never used them. Running ball diff and losi shocks.

If anyone is interested please send me an offer on them.

SC10 rear hex?
 

Recently took delivery of my new SC10 kit. I would like to run the Pro-line beadlock wheels so no need for gluing tires on to wheels etc. Can somebody let me know if I am able to use the Traxxas rear wheels and just fit 12mm hexes to the rear axles instead of using the AE wheels with drive pins that everyone seems to be having problems with when running a mod setup.

Gday Fellas I just got stuck on my SC10 build and after searching through this thread i havent found anyone to have the same problem. Any help or ideas to try out etc would be greatlly appreciated, it's my first kit build tho im not new to r/c.

cant seem to attach the motor plate .. the 3 screws with washers that come through from the other side and look like there meant to grab the plate are a smaller diameter than the plate holes. Page 8 Step 7/8 ... the bolts are 6928 4-40x1 schs and slide cleanely through the motor plate holes.

i tried x1 1/4 and 3/4 sizes up and they dont grab ethier, if the screws get much bigger im not sure they will make it through the transmission casing to the motor plate ethier way.