Hahah. Yeah, after we all spent the money to convert them ourselves!:lol:

That's ok. That truck looks great. I'm anxious to see how it performs. I will have one.:nod:

when is the release date?

Hey guys I have a question about my SC10 shocks. I built mine with the VCS2 upgrade kit with a bladder. When I tightened the shock caps I had the shaft pushed all the way in. I don't get any rebound on the shocks now is that the way they should react.

I think you are correct. When I bleed mine with the AE Bleeder caps they have very little to no rebound. The Springs do all the action.

The main reason for the bladders is to ensure you do not have air in the piston cavity. That will effect the damping action.

Right. There should be ZERO rebound. Rebound just means you have too much oil in there, and "rebound" is what causes you to bend shock shafts and blow caps off.

Rebound is bad :D

Just an update.. I suggested on this thread and maybe another to use the hpi blitz shocks and while they work very good if you pull the rubber gromet or shock stop off the front shock for the added compression it will end up destroying the diaphram on the top, the bolt hpi uses goes right up into it and over time it will bust through it. So if you use the HPI shocks keep the gromet on...

I didn't actually figure this out until tonight when I was rebuilding but it took quite a few races for them to mess up; I raced thursday night 2 qualifiers and got beat in the B main on the last corner (some great driving) then Saturday I raced 2 qualifiers, got stuck in the "c" bumped to the "b" and then bumped to the "a" main and that A main was first SC to 100laps! But the trucks handling got real nasty about 1/2 way through the A and I just assumed I was tired and loosing focus as I only finished 89 laps.. Guess not. it makes more sense now. I did also loose 3 laps due to some REALLY bad corner mashalling one crash (got bumped over) actually lost me 2 full laps because a kid wasn't paying attention. I was pretty frustrated to say the least.

Just wanted to let everyone know that Josh Anderson from AE took care of the issue that I had posted a few pages back with the rear wheels.

He replaced all my spun wheels and patched up the horrible things I was thinking about AE from when I talked with Brent and was belittled by him.

Big thanks to Josh and AE for stepping up to the plate!!!

Excellent work Associated. :nod:

does the new updated sc10 come with 2.4 spectrum type receiver?

Looks like it is only available as a kit and not RTR just yet, so there is no radio at all.

how do i test the slipper to get the proper amount of slip? i have been just tightening it and then holding the back end down and making sure it slips a little

but i have no idea how much it should. i replaced spurs this weekend and after i tightened and made sure it slipped it felt good, but i dont know if it was due to the slipper being adjusted right or not

That's how I've always done it.

You should be able to run the slipper locked up (I did this with 13.5 motors) if you want and not damage the spur gears, make sure your motor isn't gonna move after an impact.
Tighten that sucker good.
(of course you're setting the mesh perfectly right?:sneaky:)

I believe the idea is to nail the throttle from a standing start on the surface of your choice. The clutch should slip for a couple feet rather than spin the tires.

1/8th wheels
 

Im trying to gather some part numbers for converting the sc10 wheels over to 1/8th buggy wheels.

Can someone tell me what I need to do the conversion, and what sixe hexes would I be able to use. (12 or 17)

Is this all the slipper is for? I cranked it all the way down one time this weekend with my 10.5 in it and the back wheels never broke free. I wasn't trying to break them free, but it never happened. Why shouldn't I leave it tightened up? I'm new to this