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Thanks I did that and I think that'll be the trick. I'd like to throw them back in I'm sure they are better for acceleration than conventional dogbones.
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ceramic bearings
Anyone find that ceramic bearing help @ all???::)
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I had 1 in a brushless motor once. I was racing a dusty track and kept locking bearings up. put the ceramic yellow sheild in and lasted 3 times longer.
they are nice if u want to spend the $ |
What gearing you guys running on a tekin 9.5T motor and zero boost?
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 8752700)
I just ripped out the CVA's out of my FTSC10. Stupid pins kept popping out and knocking off my tie rod ends. That metal band that slips over the pin kept rotating allowing the pin to come out.
Have you guys found any fix for that? I put the old dogbone setup off my other SC10 on for now. What a giant p.i.t.a. it was. Running a 3800 kv Castle motor with 20/87 and have it dialed back some for 2wd mod, very fun. :nod: |
well I rebuilt the cva's and spun the band around and used tire glue to keep them from moving. I was too tired n lazy to throw them back in but they will back on the truck for practice this week. I'm sure they are better and more efficient than conventional dogbones.
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1 Attachment(s)
Here is a pic from when I built my truck last month.
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Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96
(Post 8756745)
I have had the same problem two different times. (once Yesterday) I used the narrow electrical tape. I wrapped a few times the trimed some of it back.
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Can anyone give me a quick low down on front camber links and what effects you found by the different setups.
To be specific here is my questions. Longer camber link= ? Shorter camber link=? Inside Camber link holes inner and outer=? Washers on the inside camber links studs=? Outside c-hub holes o-o-o adjustment=? |
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?
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Originally Posted by leaderbeanjr
(Post 8785767)
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?
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try a glitchbuster or other compasitor. also, what servo u using? it could be trying to draw more power from the esc that it is willing to give. which will cause shutdowns.
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Originally Posted by leaderbeanjr
(Post 8785767)
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 8752700)
I just ripped out the CVA's out of my FTSC10. Stupid pins kept popping out and knocking off my tie rod ends. That metal band that slips over the pin kept rotating allowing the pin to come out.
Have you guys found any fix for that? I put the old dogbone setup off my other SC10 on for now. What a giant p.i.t.a. it was. Running a 3800 kv Castle motor with 20/87 and have it dialed back some for 2wd mod, very fun. :nod: |
ThunderbirdJunkie used a dab of CA on the bands for his CVAs on his B4.1, FWIW.
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