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Pls help. My steering got some problem I think. When I turn left all the way, my SC10 turns perfectly but when I turn right all the way, it seems to struggle to turn right. It's like only 70% to the right.
Anything I should look into? I just change the servo and I tested the servo on another car, it works fine. |
did you center you're radio and servo
Make sure both are centered with servo out of the truck.
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make sure your motor sensor harness is good. mine had a bad contact and was cutting in and out.
Originally Posted by leaderbeanjr
(Post 8785767)
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?
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Originally Posted by leaderbeanjr
(Post 8785767)
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?
Originally Posted by offtraxx
(Post 8788701)
try a glitchbuster or other compasitor. also, what servo u using? it could be trying to draw more power from the esc that it is willing to give. which will cause shutdowns.
Seems as tho newer servos eat up power and need the extra supply? I have to run glitch busters in both SC trucks, 4w and 2w with digital servos. |
Originally Posted by F N CUDA
(Post 8822569)
+1 on the glitch buster, stores some voltage so the receiver keeps full power.
Seems as tho newer servos eat up power and need the extra supply? I have to run glitch busters in both SC trucks, 4w and 2w with digital servos. |
High siding
I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for the truck high siding, anytime I try and through the truck into a fast turn it wants to roll over, I am running Scott Browns setup on the truck it seams to work good on the tight stuff at slower speeds but through the fast turns it just wants to roll.
Thanks |
slow down! :lol:
what springs and oil are you running? Try this, red springs up front, with green out back. 35 wt up front, and 30 in rear. |
What tires are you running? 9 times out of 10 when your traction rolling in high speed your running to soft of rubber. Just because all 3 top tire companies make stupid soft rubber doesnt mean you HAVE to run it LOL :lol:
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 8841517)
slow down! :lol:
what springs and oil are you running? Try this, red springs up front, with green out back. 35 wt up front, and 30 in rear. |
Originally Posted by rdeppen
(Post 8841520)
What tires are you running? 9 times out of 10 when your traction rolling in high speed your running to soft of rubber. Just because all 3 top tire companies make stupid soft rubber doesnt mean you HAVE to run it LOL :lol:
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You must have a super high traction track Cruiser198!!!
Which holes are you using in the rear shock tower? I drilled the 4th hole and it helps a lot with high speed side load. I was using the same shock setup as Jeffs SC10 recommends and recently switch to blue springs up front. If you really want to limit body roll you can increase the roll center by adding washers to the rear ball studs. You can also install the FT Sway bar kit but this will require that you change you set-up to compensate. I ran the mid size sway bar in the past and it works pretty good if you soften up the spring rates. |
I am still fighting a loose rear end on my FT SC10.
I drilled a 4th hole on the tower to the inside of the stock holes. I also moved the shock out on the rear arm. I am running 35/30 oil with red and green springs. 2 degrees of anti squat, 4 degrees rear toe. Ride height is 30/27. I am also running the rear camber link long and I am using the FT aluminum rear .5 hubs. I have backed off the diff and slipper a little to try to keep the rear end under control. Im running Green JConcept DD's, Goosebumps and Sub's. I am also using a Tekin RS Pro/ 17.5 redline combo. I am just not able to put the power to the ground. |
Originally Posted by Sprikler
(Post 8841622)
I am still fighting a loose rear end on my FT SC10.
I drilled a 4th hole on the tower to the inside of the stock holes. I also moved the shock out on the rear arm. I am running 35/30 oil with red and green springs. 2 degrees of anti squat, 4 degrees rear toe. Ride height is 30/27. I am also running the rear camber link long and I am using the FT aluminum rear .5 hubs. I have backed off the diff and slipper a little to try to keep the rear end under control. Im running Green JConcept DD's, Goosebumps and Sub's. I am also using a Tekin RS Pro/ 17.5 redline combo. I am just not able to put the power to the ground. What about weights. Did you add 3 oz of weight in front of your rear shock tower? Were is your battery located? Can you describe the track surface? |
whats the best way to get rid of traction rolling on carpet,
I managed to get the truck to be crazy loose at first then bout 2-3 mins in a race, I pick up a nasty tracion roll problem. I got the sway bar on it,silver bar 50 weight all around red springs up front blue in the back 4000 wieght diff oil I'm trying to keep as much down travel of my shocks as possible, tho I do have the front limited a lil any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks:cool: |
Originally Posted by wcrase101
(Post 8842203)
whats the best way to get rid of traction rolling on carpet,
I managed to get the truck to be crazy loose at first then bout 2-3 mins in a race, I pick up a nasty tracion roll problem. I got the sway bar on it,silver bar 50 weight all around red springs up front blue in the back 4000 wieght diff oil I'm trying to keep as much down travel of my shocks as possible, tho I do have the front limited a lil any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks:cool: In general I like to have the rear stiffer than the front to get the most steering and loosen up the rear so I can through the rear end around without traction rolling. My experience with the SC10 on carpet is limited but I would go softer spring in front...maybe blue. I would push the battery all the way forward. I would also use the silver sway bar and increase the oil in the rear to maybe 60wt. You could also change to the #3 piston in the rear to manage the damping. Ride height would be a balance between corner traction and managing jumps. I would also lay the shocks down as much as possible. Drilling the 4th hole would be top on my list for sure. |
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