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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

nightc 03-18-2011 01:56 AM

Pls help. My steering got some problem I think. When I turn left all the way, my SC10 turns perfectly but when I turn right all the way, it seems to struggle to turn right. It's like only 70% to the right.

Anything I should look into? I just change the servo and I tested the servo on another car, it works fine.

gotaslash4x4 03-18-2011 04:39 AM

did you center you're radio and servo
 
Make sure both are centered with servo out of the truck.

Aoh 03-18-2011 07:43 AM

make sure your motor sensor harness is good. mine had a bad contact and was cutting in and out.


Originally Posted by leaderbeanjr (Post 8785767)
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?


F N CUDA 03-18-2011 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by leaderbeanjr (Post 8785767)
I have been racing indoor offroad on carpet in the spec 17.5 class. They make use the Novak havoc spec esc/motor combo. It seems like it cuts everyonce in a while like it is thermaling... I checked the motor temp and 120-125 the esc was 95. I have a fan for the esc I was going to use but couldn't find anything for the motor that looked like it would fit. Anyone use or know of something to help the motor cool down?


Originally Posted by offtraxx (Post 8788701)
try a glitchbuster or other compasitor. also, what servo u using? it could be trying to draw more power from the esc that it is willing to give. which will cause shutdowns.

+1 on the glitch buster, stores some voltage so the receiver keeps full power.
Seems as tho newer servos eat up power and need the extra supply?
I have to run glitch busters in both SC trucks, 4w and 2w with digital servos.

ntrain42 03-18-2011 10:59 AM


Originally Posted by F N CUDA (Post 8822569)
+1 on the glitch buster, stores some voltage so the receiver keeps full power.
Seems as tho newer servos eat up power and need the extra supply?
I have to run glitch busters in both SC trucks, 4w and 2w with digital servos.

Link to these glitch busters? SOunds like they have some type of cap to keep voltage high and nominal for the servos and or reciever when the ESC is trying to draw heavy amps?

cruiser198 03-22-2011 06:14 AM

High siding
 
I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for the truck high siding, anytime I try and through the truck into a fast turn it wants to roll over, I am running Scott Browns setup on the truck it seams to work good on the tight stuff at slower speeds but through the fast turns it just wants to roll.

Thanks

JEFFs SC10 03-22-2011 06:17 AM

slow down! :lol:

what springs and oil are you running?

Try this, red springs up front, with green out back.


35 wt up front, and 30 in rear.

rdeppen 03-22-2011 06:17 AM

What tires are you running? 9 times out of 10 when your traction rolling in high speed your running to soft of rubber. Just because all 3 top tire companies make stupid soft rubber doesnt mean you HAVE to run it LOL :lol:

cruiser198 03-22-2011 06:23 AM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 8841517)
slow down! :lol:

what springs and oil are you running?

Try this, red springs up front, with green out back.


35 wt up front, and 30 in rear.

LOL yeah but when the guys are going buy you and your rolling you have to try and keep up LOL I have red springs up front silver in back and running 35 30 like you said

cruiser198 03-22-2011 06:24 AM


Originally Posted by rdeppen (Post 8841520)
What tires are you running? 9 times out of 10 when your traction rolling in high speed your running to soft of rubber. Just because all 3 top tire companies make stupid soft rubber doesnt mean you HAVE to run it LOL :lol:

im running panthers all around on a med clay track

ShortCourseOnly 03-22-2011 06:41 AM

You must have a super high traction track Cruiser198!!!

Which holes are you using in the rear shock tower? I drilled the 4th hole and it helps a lot with high speed side load. I was using the same shock setup as Jeffs SC10 recommends and recently switch to blue springs up front.

If you really want to limit body roll you can increase the roll center by adding washers to the rear ball studs. You can also install the FT Sway bar kit but this will require that you change you set-up to compensate. I ran the mid size sway bar in the past and it works pretty good if you soften up the spring rates.

Sprinkler 03-22-2011 06:44 AM

I am still fighting a loose rear end on my FT SC10.

I drilled a 4th hole on the tower to the inside of the stock holes. I also moved the shock out on the rear arm. I am running 35/30 oil with red and green springs. 2 degrees of anti squat, 4 degrees rear toe. Ride height is
30/27. I am also running the rear camber link long and I am using the FT aluminum rear .5 hubs.
I have backed off the diff and slipper a little to try to keep the rear end under control. Im running Green JConcept DD's, Goosebumps and Sub's. I am also using a Tekin RS Pro/ 17.5 redline combo.
I am just not able to put the power to the ground.

ShortCourseOnly 03-22-2011 06:56 AM


Originally Posted by Sprikler (Post 8841622)
I am still fighting a loose rear end on my FT SC10.

I drilled a 4th hole on the tower to the inside of the stock holes. I also moved the shock out on the rear arm. I am running 35/30 oil with red and green springs. 2 degrees of anti squat, 4 degrees rear toe. Ride height is
30/27. I am also running the rear camber link long and I am using the FT aluminum rear .5 hubs.
I have backed off the diff and slipper a little to try to keep the rear end under control. Im running Green JConcept DD's, Goosebumps and Sub's. I am also using a Tekin RS Pro/ 17.5 redline combo.
I am just not able to put the power to the ground.

It seems that you have a low traction surface. I have run nearly the same set-up that you have with the same problems. What I did after all of these set-up changes is tune down the throttle response at low speed. I run a Kinetic 2S and Spektrum DX3S in my Sc10. I changed the throttle curve a lot a the low end to minimize the amount of speed requested at low throttle. I used the current limiter a lot at low speeds which can help limit wheel spin. In the end it is about throttle control.

What about weights. Did you add 3 oz of weight in front of your rear shock tower? Were is your battery located? Can you describe the track surface?

wcrase101 03-22-2011 08:33 AM

whats the best way to get rid of traction rolling on carpet,
I managed to get the truck to be crazy loose at first then bout 2-3 mins in a race, I pick up a nasty tracion roll problem.
I got the sway bar on it,silver bar
50 weight all around
red springs up front
blue in the back
4000 wieght diff oil

I'm trying to keep as much down travel of my shocks as possible, tho I do have the front limited a lil

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks:cool:

ShortCourseOnly 03-22-2011 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by wcrase101 (Post 8842203)
whats the best way to get rid of traction rolling on carpet,
I managed to get the truck to be crazy loose at first then bout 2-3 mins in a race, I pick up a nasty tracion roll problem.
I got the sway bar on it,silver bar
50 weight all around
red springs up front
blue in the back
4000 wieght diff oil

I'm trying to keep as much down travel of my shocks as possible, tho I do have the front limited a lil

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks:cool:

Were is your battery positioned? What tires are you using?

In general I like to have the rear stiffer than the front to get the most steering and loosen up the rear so I can through the rear end around without traction rolling. My experience with the SC10 on carpet is limited but I would go softer spring in front...maybe blue. I would push the battery all the way forward. I would also use the silver sway bar and increase the oil in the rear to maybe 60wt. You could also change to the #3 piston in the rear to manage the damping. Ride height would be a balance between corner traction and managing jumps. I would also lay the shocks down as much as possible. Drilling the 4th hole would be top on my list for sure.


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