Originally Posted by plod (Post 7190502)

I've finally managed to lay my hands on some losi shocks
They came with red springs, and they feel a little too much for the front - any recommendations on springs to use, or a good range of springs to have please

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 7195442)

Losi pinks on the front of mine, feels good, man.

Originally Posted by z50king (Post 7195463)

yeah pinks front and rear for losi shocks on sc10

Originally Posted by plod (Post 7325383)

Due to a robbery, I haven't got enough stuff back to race until last weekend.

Tried the pinks on the car and it was undriveable. The softness of the spring, made the rear end unload all the time, and was forever spinning out, admittedly on a damp track. Tried the red on front, and improved, tried red all round and improved, and then orange front, and improved further still.

Guess it's horses for courses, but didn't work on the 1/10th grass/astro track we ran at this weekend.

Running on a 1/10th grass track this weekend, and ordered some silver, green, and blue to try out as thought the car was quite twitchy.

Originally Posted by Pimpin (Post 7330728)

I'm running losi shocks with front red and back pink.

Works great.

Originally Posted by F N CUDA (Post 7331821)

It's been a while since I ran mine and I have forgotten what I have in and on my Losi shocks.

Pimpdude, what oils and pistons you runnin.
I'm pretty sure I tried to match what was the ticket with the AE shocks back in the day but don't have a clue what that was.
Something like silver rear and gold or red front springs but lost on the oil.

I'm also guessin the whole setup has changed in the last 6 months or so with the killer tires, rear toe in, etc...

So hook a brother up!

What are some setups for our local clay spots. OCRC and WCRC?

Any homey's tips are welcomed cuz I'm blowin the cobwebs and dust off of mine and gonna be in your way soon.

Originally Posted by Pimpin (Post 7331866)

Haha no problem!

Running red pistons in front and black in rear. 35wt oil all corners. Pink front and yellow rear springs. B limiter in front and A limiter in back.

I have my whole setup written down and I'll have to transfer it to electronic setup sheet and post up for you guys to try my ocrc setup and see how it works for your driving style.

Originally Posted by Low&Slow (Post 7336543)

Okay I have been watching this thread for a while.. and finally decided to post some thing about the SC10 setup BOX Stock is all wrong it couldn't be worse than it is.. 22 Yrs in this Hobby I would like to offer some free insight.. so here goes. For a very long time AE released kits that were pretty good box stock Especially Buggies and Trucks.. For some reason when the B4 T4 series Began it started to go downhill. I dont know why it just did, However I must add AE still remains My Favorite. Okay what you guys want to hear.. The SC 10 is all wrong because of a wieght Bias Issue combined with problems with CHassis roll and Spring Stiffness. First the car needs to be weighed on all four corners with A-Arms Level And Battery to the rearward position with the Stock Battery Strap.. DO NOT PUT YOUR BATTERY ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK!! What you are trying to figure out is the weight bias difference figured in percentage. This will allow you to select Springs Based on that figure.. most of you suffer from one ill handling trait on the SC 10 when exiting a Corner the rear end of the Car Breaks Loose they all do it.. This is Because the Rear end of the Car has too Soft of Springs and The Front has too Stiff.. when exiting the Corner the front end unloads much earlier than the rear hence weight is still on the outside rear tire causing the car to come around..
Okay so so right well DO you need to buy scales NO!! but you owe it to yourself to try some of these things I talked about today. My SC 10 Has Silver On the Back and Black on the Front it jumps flat and loads and unloads evenly
THE NEW ERA MODELS FRONT SWAY KIT.. helps as well but it not needed
My Front pistons have four holes my rear have 2 and theres and 25 wt all around.. the whole point is Balanced handling it can be done.. I going to stop here and see who responds or tries this setup then if there is interest I'll post more;)

Originally Posted by Low&Slow (Post 7336543)

Okay I have been watching this thread for a while.. and finally decided to post some thing about the SC10 setup BOX Stock is all wrong it couldn't be worse than it is.. 22 Yrs in this Hobby I would like to offer some free insight.. so here goes. For a very long time AE released kits that were pretty good box stock Especially Buggies and Trucks.. For some reason when the B4 T4 series Began it started to go downhill. I dont know why it just did, However I must add AE still remains My Favorite. Okay what you guys want to hear.. The SC 10 is all wrong because of a wieght Bias Issue combined with problems with CHassis roll and Spring Stiffness. First the car needs to be weighed on all four corners with A-Arms Level And Battery to the rearward position with the Stock Battery Strap.. DO NOT PUT YOUR BATTERY ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK!! What you are trying to figure out is the weight bias difference figured in percentage. This will allow you to select Springs Based on that figure.. most of you suffer from one ill handling trait on the SC 10 when exiting a Corner the rear end of the Car Breaks Loose they all do it.. This is Because the Rear end of the Car has too Soft of Springs and The Front has too Stiff.. when exiting the Corner the front end unloads much earlier than the rear hence weight is still on the outside rear tire causing the car to come around..
Okay so right well DO you need to buy scales NO!! but you owe it to yourself to try some of these things I talked about today. My SC 10 Has AE gold On the Back and Black on the Front it jumps flat and loads and unloads evenly
THE NEW ERA MODELS FRONT SWAY KIT.. helps as well but it not needed
My Front pistons have four holes my rear have 2 and theres and 25 wt all around.. the whole point is Balanced handling it can be done.. I going to stop here and see who responds or tries this setup then if there is interest I'll post more;)

Originally Posted by RcRacing4Ever (Post 7337345)

OK , I'll bite....I have to agree with the balance of your car. Thats how it is in OnRoad...you want all 4 corners to weigh the same & balanced left to right.

I run my battery in the Stock location(lipo) we all know is lighter than the old packs & added 3/4 oz up front around the servo
Ae shocks with 40 oil, Blue springs up front & silvers in the rear. with #3 piston. I added limiters to the front shocks(2) to take out droop, & a rear swaybar(silver) with an added 1 degree of rear toe with Proline Calibers.

I run on Red Clay...hard packed,loomy & dusty & blacked grooved

I like the way it handles :D

Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly (Post 7337383)

My set-up is closer to RCRacing4Ever. My set-up works well for me and jumps and corners great.

Front: Blue Springs, 3 limiters, 35wt oil, 30 degree casters
Rear: Green Springs, Silver swaybar, 2 limiters, 30wt oil, 1.5 deg toe hubs
Battery: Stock rear position with FT Battery strap.
Tires: Panther Switch 2.0 soft for hard clay track.

The only issue I am targeting is a little too much push. I am planning to change to the 25 degree casters first and then go to stiffer rear springs (Grey).

Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly (Post 7337383)

My set-up is closer to RCRacing4Ever. My set-up works well for me and jumps and corners great.

Front: Blue Springs, 3 limiters, 35wt oil, 30 degree casters
Rear: Green Springs, Silver swaybar, 2 limiters, 30wt oil, 1.5 deg toe hubs
Battery: Stock rear position with FT Battery strap.
Tires: Panther Switch 2.0 soft for hard clay track.

The only issue I am targeting is a little too much push. I am planning to change to the 25 degree casters first and then go to stiffer rear springs (Grey).