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Hi Guys,
Getting into the RC car hobby, been flying planes and helis for 10 years and really wanna get into the Short Course scene, I've decided to skip the RTR kits, mainly because I want to race and have been told that I will end up replacing allot of parts on the RTR kits for racing. So I'm budgeting and sorting out my first racing short Course Truck, YAY :D This is the buying list so far: Supplier (Supreme Hobbies): Kit: 1 x Team Associated SC10 Factory Team Kit Supplier (Hobbypartz): Radio: 1 x FlySky FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 2.4ghz TX & RX LCD Transmitter & Receiver Batteries: 2 x Gens ace LIPO 5000mAh 40C 7.4V lipo battery pack ROAR approved Servo: 1 x EXI Digital Coreless Servo-D226F w/ Metal Gear (0.15s / 13kg/cm / 180.5oz/in) I need some advise for motor and esc, going to be running club 13.5T races. seen a few options but just starting out in the RC car scene i'm not sure what is worth the $ and what is junk Appreciate any advise that could be passed my way :) The reason I have separated them by supplier is really for me, I live in NZ so I'm trying to consolidate the parts I need as much as possible to reduce my overall shipping costs :) If you know a good esc and motor combo or set from the current chosen suppliers that would make a huge difference in my overall costs. Thanks guys. Regards Jack |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9394684)
If you want to run the pro-line wheels you need to order the ones that are the "protrac" wheel.
The proline beadlock system wheel for sc10 to me appears to be for the rtr version which doesnt have 12mm hex. I have the race spec sc10 which comes with 12mm hexes front and rear std. so would i have to order the proline beadlock wheels for the slash because i am pretty sure they come with 12mm hex or are they the wrong offset? Thanks for helping me |
Originally Posted by Lojik
(Post 9396189)
Hi Guys,
Getting into the RC car hobby, been flying planes and helis for 10 years and really wanna get into the Short Course scene, I've decided to skip the RTR kits, mainly because I want to race and have been told that I will end up replacing allot of parts on the RTR kits for racing. So I'm budgeting and sorting out my first racing short Course Truck, YAY :D This is the buying list so far: Supplier (Supreme Hobbies): Kit: 1 x Team Associated SC10 Factory Team Kit Supplier (Hobbypartz): Radio: 1 x FlySky FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 2.4ghz TX & RX LCD Transmitter & Receiver Batteries: 2 x Gens ace LIPO 5000mAh 40C 7.4V lipo battery pack ROAR approved Servo: 1 x EXI Digital Coreless Servo-D226F w/ Metal Gear (0.15s / 13kg/cm / 180.5oz/in) I need some advise for motor and esc, going to be running club 13.5T races. seen a few options but just starting out in the RC car scene i'm not sure what is worth the $ and what is junk Appreciate any advise that could be passed my way :) The reason I have separated them by supplier is really for me, I live in NZ so I'm trying to consolidate the parts I need as much as possible to reduce my overall shipping costs :) If you know a good esc and motor combo or set from the current chosen suppliers that would make a huge difference in my overall costs. Thanks guys. Regards Jack |
Originally Posted by Murray100
(Post 9396744)
Castle sct 3800 is very popular at our track in san diego. Do not think it will qualify for 13.5 though.
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Originally Posted by Boadazofa
(Post 9396587)
I had a look at them but from what i saw they didn't appear to be the beadlock system.
The proline beadlock system wheel for sc10 to me appears to be for the rtr version which doesnt have 12mm hex. I have the race spec sc10 which comes with 12mm hexes front and rear std. so would i have to order the proline beadlock wheels for the slash because i am pretty sure they come with 12mm hex or are they the wrong offset? Thanks for helping me beadlocks are nice but i have had bad experiances using them on sct's. |
I just use the JC Rulux 12mm wheels in the rear (along with their 12mm hex conversion). Let me know if those fit the front RS hex wheels. I'm planning on converting to those when AE releases the parts to the market.
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
(Post 9397410)
wrong offset. slash wheels would stick out about a 1/4- 1/2 inch outside the body. I havn't seen any beadlocks for the sc10 yet (would be the same for the 4x4 too). maybe do some more searching or just use stock rims and glue.
beadlocks are nice but i have had bad experiances using them on sct's. |
Originally Posted by Asharus
(Post 9397417)
I just use the JC Rulux 12mm wheels in the rear (along with their 12mm hex conversion). Let me know if those fit the front RS hex wheels. I'm planning on converting to those when AE releases the parts to the market.
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
(Post 9397527)
They should fit it is a 12mm hex
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Heard JConcepts is releasing a new rim for the Sc-10 that will make the Sc-10 a bit wider, like the Kyosho ....:cool:
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Steering linkage
I'm trying to set my sc10 steering linkage. If I make them equal the one wheel has so much toe out ... is the manual wrong on the basic set up lengths? I purchased the truck used and want to take it back to box set up and work from there.
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kit turnbuckle dimensions
Ft camber link =84.2mm use stud on shock tower inside, use inside stud on caster block. steering link = 89.4mm rear camber link =91.4mm use the inside hole on chassis ,outside hole on rear hub |
Originally Posted by isarctard
(Post 9397806)
I'm trying to set my sc10 steering linkage. If I make them equal the one wheel has so much toe out ... is the manual wrong on the basic set up lengths? I purchased the truck used and want to take it back to box set up and work from there.
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Ok guys, I have been researching the Proline Flo-Tek body. I'm looking for a new body that will provide good downforce and decrease the parachute effect. URC website did a comparison which showed that the body did best when they cut out even more areas than designed for. :mad: Is there any other bodies out there that would be better? :confused:
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i use the j concepts svt raptor and i don't cut the slots out and don't have the parachute effect
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