Either a SXX v1/v2 (I hear V1s are more reliable) or a Tekin RS.

I'd run it with what you have first but if you do upgrade, I'd get the non TC-spec SXX v.2. I have one and love it and the throttle maps are supposed to be more 2wd oriented than the TC ones.

To add a question to the original poster, exactly how long are you running the car when it gets too hot?

Metal spurs gears are generally bad news as well.

RTR signal distance problems?
 

I've got a SC10 RTR with the XP3-SS radio and the truck only goes about 30 yards before the signal cuts out and the truck comes to a stop. I have to get back within about 20 feet of it before the signal comes back. Someone told me NOT to use rechargeable AA batteries and that's my problem. This doesn't make much sense though since these same batteries do fine in my Airtronics M11 Spektrum setup on another car. I've of course tried fiddling with the receiver, antennae, and all other things I could think of. Any thoughts? (I took a look through this thread and couldn't find any relevant posts)

thanks for any help!

use it,i have a rs and 13.5(lightley boosted)and a friend has a sphere with a 8.5 and we run together

Did you try re-binding the TX/RX?

I did rebind it, but the same problem remains. After rebinding, I did notice though that the green light on the transmitter does occasionally go off for a second or two and then come back on. If it goes off within a close enough range where the truck still works, the light going off does not necessarily affect the signal to the truck. It seems that the error is just when the vehicle gets too far away (at about 30 yards the problem starts). The receiver light is a solid green.

What is a good starting point for gearing? I'm putting in a Traxxas velineon system with a 2s 7.4 40c lipo.

Thanks

motor size would help

Velineon 3500 Brushless Motor
10-Turn, 3500kV

probley more to a 13.5 try 25/81 some were in there check temps around 2-3 min

Has anyone had problems with the rear chassis plate on the sc10? Just wondering if its a common part to break and is there a really strong one to go with if it does break?

not very often.. the common way to break it though is if your landing hard on the top of a jump.. one day i was messin around and i made a legit "sheet metal" rear chassis plate. its pretty cool and it fits! but i dont use it because it puts weight on the car.

My stock one has held up for a long time. I probably have around 20+ race days with mine by now. Come to think of it, I haven't broken anything yet (knock on wood). The only aftermarket part I have for durability is the RPM front bumper/chassis brace.

Miine hasnnt broken yet. I thojght rpm made one but I gues not