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Originally Posted by Asharus
(Post 9889116)
im the opposite, i like to push my motors to the limit. if im not temping between 140-160/170 i'm not happy
More often than not my motors temp at around 145-160. |
Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1
(Post 9888830)
I'll be your first customer just let me know the details
I always up for helping out another guys beer fund if I can!!! :) |
Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1
(Post 9888830)
I'll be your first customer just let me know the details
I always up for helping out another guys beer fund if I can!!! |
Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1
(Post 9888485)
You could find a bunch of people interested if you could do it for under $25-$30, that's what STRC charges for theirs. The quality would need to be as good or better than theirs as well
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Originally Posted by Asharus
(Post 9889116)
im the opposite, i like to push my motors to the limit. if im not temping between 140-160/170 i'm not happy
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Originally Posted by buzzbuzzard
(Post 9889523)
Yeah, I know I baby my gear. Money is always tight. And this addiction isn't cheap. Being electronics are the most expensive parts. They have to last.
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[QUOTE=Asharus;9889743]I hear ya, but since I race 17.5 blinky, you need to be geared perfectly to be competitive. I'm even considering replacing my Novak with a revtech since I hear those motors have a good advantage over other 17.5s out there now.[/QUOTE
Asharus is right. For blinky racing you almost don't have a choice but to run your motor at the edge of disaster. The Revtech motors are really great for blinky racing on an SC10 but they run pretty hot. 2 others that are doing really well at our track are the Team Powers Plutonium and the Reedy Sonic. They run a lot cooler and pull just as hard. |
my gear diff is fixed. i added more grease to it. and no more clicking.
it runs like a bat out of hell |
0 degree hubs??
I'm using the Chad Due setup on my SC10 and just love it, it calls for 0* rear hubs but i'm currently 1*, what can I expect if I go to the 0* hubs?? thanks
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Awesome :tire: How full are you talking? (ex. 75%, almost brimming over) Did you put the sun gears in first? I know 30% full typically becomes closer to 70% when you put the gears back into the diff.
Originally Posted by stang
(Post 9891895)
my gear diff is fixed. i added more grease to it. and no more clicking.
it runs like a bat out of hell |
Are you referring to this setup? What kind of track setup/conditions are you running on?
Originally Posted by xBRxSAIGON
(Post 9891993)
I'm using the Chad Due setup on my SC10 and just love it, it calls for 0* rear hubs but i'm currently 1*, what can I expect if I go to the 0* hubs?? thanks
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Originally Posted by xBRxSAIGON
(Post 9891993)
I'm using the Chad Due setup on my SC10 and just love it, it calls for 0* rear hubs but i'm currently 1*, what can I expect if I go to the 0* hubs?? thanks
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Trans problems
Well, got my new Orion motor in last night and was running around. It seems that this has a lot more torque than my last motor.
It seems that my transmission is slipping though. I loosened the slipper enough, tested it. It got about an inch and a half up before it started to slip. I went through 2 back tires by stripping in the inside. Thought that was it, however, when the car gets hot, i can hear it spinning, but the wheels are hardly moving. I took tranny out last night, took out the ball diff and inspected it, didnt see any damage at all. If i lift it off the ground, spin 1 side tire, the other side hardly moves at all if any. Normally it will spin with it or the opposite way. Any ideas? |
about 50% full with the sun gears in.
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Hey guys i am new to the SCT thing. I am getting ready a Ft SC10 and am getting the body ready to paint I have the Proline Flotek, are there any tricks you guys have for cutting out all of the air vents the large one on the hood and a couple of the ones in the rear dont seem to be to bad but the smaller ones on the fenders look like they could be a little challenging.
Thanks |
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