not worth spending $20 on slipper pads in my opinion

ok have the lhs ordering the axles and knuckles and i ordered the hexes from amain

Never tried them, but I can't see how they'd be any better than the high torque slipper pads, which are a worthwhile investment. If you're worried about glazing, get the vented hubs, but the standard v2 hubs are sufficient.

Diff
 

Whats better the associated ball diff or MIP ball diff

I slacked. But here it is.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/5...8220021540.jpg

Got my sc10 ft all ready and running for last nights races, Did a hybrid of the Cavaleiri setup and a few tricks the locals pros showed me, I haven't raced in over 12 years, and have only been on the track a few times with my 4x4 slash, ran the truck two times before the quals to get the diff and slipper seated in, then TQ'd both heats and got 2nd in the race in 2wd stock SC. Very impressed with this truck! The track owner immediately came over to check my truck because he thought I was cheating! Ha. We have a smooth high traction clay track and my setup is as follows:

Team Orion R10 and Vortex Pro Stock 17.5, savox 1258TG, proline hex conversion front and rear, AKA Rebar tires all around, flotek body and 2 year old puffed venom 50c batteries that I borrowed from a friend, the pack I raced on wouldn't balanced, so I raced with one cell at 3.95 volts and the other at 4.21 volts, needless to say, I have some better ones already coming :) Oh, and I'm using a futaba 4pks. LOVE this truck.

very nice. im going build mine up slowly in the direction of a FT but i don;t want to go all of the way as some of it just adds excess weight

How so? :confused:

The Hazards look bad-ass! Got a set myself. Just a bit wider than stock too.

Moon

I just switched to the new heavy duty Ae pads for the 2w Sc , very pleased with....

I'm not sure what FT parts add weight but even if they do it would be very minimal and not make a difference in performance. Your gonna need to add weight to this truck anyhow

+1 I have 2.75 oz behind the battery :nod:

Excited about racing my SC10 this weekend. Just pulled it out of the closet
last night, and put the tires back on. Still debating if I should run the body
that's on it right now or my Ford Raptor Jconcepts shell. Body still
doesnt make the difference it's still all driving. 75% driver, 25% setup.:)

My SC10 is dialed. I started with a FT RC10T4 and converted to SC10. Since then the SC10 FT was released and I updated everything except the V2 shock bodies. I have added more than 3 oz. of weight to balance the chassis and to improve traction. I initially drove the weight down to ROAR specs for Stock class without timing and it was very fast but it was difficult to improve traction with out weight. So I don't see how the FT has anything heavier than stock. I was so obsessed about weight that I used as many aluminum screws as I could. I use the FT Carbon arms and did not update anything that was heavy. I even used the Carbon rear plate.

Now I have the FT Ballast between the transmission and hinge pin bracket. I have swapped out the carbon rear top plate for a STRC aluminum one for durability and added 2 oz. in the rear of the battery tray. Last week I added 1 more oz. near the servo to transfer more weight forward.

In addition I have seen Kyosho Ultima SCs with 4 oz. added and they are so planted that it makes it hard to keep up.

So if you are just getting into the SC10 2wd get the FT version and change out the rear hubs for more toe and add the 12mm wheel adapters and HAzard wheels with the tires of your choice. With this you will be dialed (if you add about 3oz.).

Receiver Box
 

I recently purchased the receiver box that comes with the RS for my FT. After a few club races I am happy with it. The little tiny o-ring gasket is a pain to get seated just right. It had more than enough room my receiver and some ballast weight to counter the ESC (I also run a little weight behind my battery). Overall the receiver box was a good investment, it keeps junk out of your RX and it looks clean.