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Good stuff here.
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I ran a real tight technical course and my truck was pushing something fierce. granted the track was a little slick and loamy but I could not get it to steer. I ran blue springs and added 1 oz of weight that hardly made a difference. battery was upfront.
Anyone know a good setup for outdoor clay, low - medium traction but has lots of tight turns? I'm going to go over it this week, make sure the wheelbase is short, check ride height, maybe go even softer on springs in the front. TIA |
Anyone explain why Maifield noted "black ball stud on steering"?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...rnats_2010.pdf and the purpose ? |
Originally Posted by Lake Ober
(Post 10083266)
Well, I just went ahead and placed my order today with Tower Hobbies. I ordered the FT kit as I have done a lot of research on it and found it to be an awesome kit. I used to race my Nitro truck, but this will be my first electric short course truck. In addition to the FT kit, I also ordered the RPM bumper assembly, front and rear RPM A-Arms, and the proper sized hinge pins for the A-Arms. I read online that a good part to get for the stock SC10's is the Factory Team carbon top plate (associated part #9567). However, I wasn't sure if the FT kit includes this piece... does anyone know if it does?
And as far as electronics go, I already have an extra Airtronics 92744 receiver that I plan to place in this truck, and have an Aitronics MX-3X TX to control it. I am not yet decided what type of ESC/motor I plan on putting it it yet, but am thinking something along the lines of the MMP or similar. Two other question I have about the FT kit I was curious if anyone knew, was: 1. Should I shim the diff. on this truck right off the bat? I have a E=Revo 1/16 VXL, and EVERYONE states that it is best to shim the diff. on them right away, b/c if you don't the gears wear down quickly (I did shim mine later on, and it was a major help). So I didn't know if this was something the people recommend on the FT SC10 to? 2. Also, what are some upgrades that people recommend right off the bat when it comes to the FT SC10? Are there any parts that are nearly guaranteed to break and I should just replace with a stronger part right off the bat? Thanks guys! I appreciate the help :) No you don't shim the Diff, it will work perfect if you build it right, There is a thread on here about how to build it. I will find it and send you a link. I would not put the RPM arms on there. I have had a few FT SC10's and have not broken a arm yet. The RPM stuff is very durable but for racing purposes it is not needed... I have RPM bumpers on my trucks now, it makes the front end pretty durable. The stock tires that come with the FT truck are pretty good, at least the rears are. They are JConcept Sub Cultures I believe. I run HB Beams front and rear and they are the best that I have found IMO. I also have 12mm Hexes all the way around. I use the proline set up because that was all that was available at the time. I know you can get the RS setup on ebay or some other sites for cheaper. The benefit of this is strength factor on the rear. The pin rears on the stock FT tend to strip. Also if you put these on the front and rear you can interchange your tires. The fronts and rear will run the same rims. So this will give you more options with tires. I run a VIPER VTX10 ESC, I personally love it. I run a few different motors and haven't had a bad one. Reedy Sonic 17.5, Viper VST 17.5, Icon 17.5, etc... I know the Tekin RS and RS pro are great ESC's. I would personally stay away from Castle and Novak. But again just my opinion. Make sure you get a good servo, these trucks turn on a dime so take advantage of it. Sorry for writing so much, hope it helps Tim |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 10081082)
here is a question guys, I am getting a clicking sound on my daughters SC10, I am assuming this is the gear diff internals causing the issue and needs a rebuild but NOT the actual gear diff (the plastic teeth outer).
Pretty much click click click when she punches it in something thick. Just want to confirm the click click is the metal gears. Also, anyone got a close up of what good gear diff internal gears should look like? |
Quick question (probably a stupid one), but... I changed out my servo to a Savox 1258tg in my RS and the three servo horns I have each hinder the steering. Anyone have any suggestions on a good servo horn to pick up?
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Originally Posted by zZ Hop
(Post 10084715)
Quick question (probably a stupid one), but... I changed out my servo to a Savox 1258tg in my RS and the three servo horns I have each hinder the steering. Anyone have any suggestions on a good servo horn to pick up?
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10084200)
I ran a real tight technical course and my truck was pushing something fierce. granted the track was a little slick and loamy but I could not get it to steer. I ran blue springs and added 1 oz of weight that hardly made a difference. battery was upfront.
Anyone know a good setup for outdoor clay, low - medium traction but has lots of tight turns? I'm going to go over it this week, make sure the wheelbase is short, check ride height, maybe go even softer on springs in the front. TIA |
Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
(Post 10084222)
Anyone explain why Maifield noted "black ball stud on steering"?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...rnats_2010.pdf and the purpose ? EFFECTS OF BUMP STEER More bump steer (wheels more parallel under compression) • Increases steering in mid-corner • Steering may become “twitchy” • Easier to control on smooth tracks Less bump steer (wheels open more under compression) • Decreases steering in mid-corner • Smoother steering response • Better on rough or bumpy tracks |
I'm looking to go 2wd racing. I'm currently running 4x4sc w/ my SC104x4.
I've decided to go w/ a sc10. Being able to switch wheels and bodies would be nice. I would like to go FT, just haven't found the right one yet. I did find, locally, a RTR brushless RS version. Looks pretty new. I know the rs has the hexes, so I'm good there. I don't need the servo the tx or the rx though. Guy want's $160 for it. Sound like a decent deal? I've got a savox 1258 servo, castle 3800/sidewinder, 5600 nanotech lipo, and my airtronics rx. Would most likely go sensored down the road a bit. I just want to get out there racing, 2wd SC always has 2-3 mains a night. The reedy motor might be a little better for me, and heck the stock esc is probably better than the sidewinder. So....What to do..... What do you guys think, pay the $200 for a FT truck, or do the $160 RS? |
to those running a 10.5, what boost are you running(if any) and what gearing. i'm trying to find a basic setup and right now im at 84/23 with no boost.
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
(Post 10085089)
I'm looking to go 2wd racing. I'm currently running 4x4sc w/ my SC104x4.
I've decided to go w/ a sc10. Being able to switch wheels and bodies would be nice. I would like to go FT, just haven't found the right one yet. I did find, locally, a RTR brushless RS version. Looks pretty new. I know the rs has the hexes, so I'm good there. I don't need the servo the tx or the rx though. Guy want's $160 for it. Sound like a decent deal? I've got a savox 1258 servo, castle 3800/sidewinder, 5600 nanotech lipo, and my airtronics rx. Would most likely go sensored down the road a bit. I just want to get out there racing, 2wd SC always has 2-3 mains a night. The reedy motor might be a little better for me, and heck the stock esc is probably better than the sidewinder. So....What to do..... What do you guys think, pay the $200 for a FT truck, or do the $160 RS? |
Originally Posted by nadan805
(Post 10085098)
FT no doubt. Wait it out.
the FT kit is worth it. to add hex you are looking at like 20-30 bucks total. |
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10084200)
I ran a real tight technical course and my truck was pushing something fierce. granted the track was a little slick and loamy but I could not get it to steer. I ran blue springs and added 1 oz of weight that hardly made a difference. battery was upfront.
Anyone know a good setup for outdoor clay, low - medium traction but has lots of tight turns? I'm going to go over it this week, make sure the wheelbase is short, check ride height, maybe go even softer on springs in the front. TIA Front- 35wt oil red springs #3 piston -1 camber 0 toe 1 bump steer washer 2 inner ball stud washers 1/4 oz weigh ton front bumper by bulkhead ride height 25mm steering bellcrank is a little tight helps the tires not wiggle as much I am noticing rear- 30wt green springs #2 piston -1 camber 3.0 toe block .0 hubs 2 inner ball sud spacers 3 oz behind battery, 1 oz in tower 4 total 25mm ride height my truck is hooked right now on my track with HB Beam tires. I have a little push but nothing were it was at a few weeks ago. I run my EPA at 60% and I can just about pin it at the apex of a corner and not spin out and not push me across the track. I hope some of that helps ya. I am running a gear diff with 5k in it and a tight slipper with HD pads Gearing is 19/87 with the Reedy 3300kv |
Originally Posted by nadan805
(Post 10085098)
FT no doubt. Wait it out.
Originally Posted by brent701
(Post 10085119)
+1.
the FT kit is worth it. to add hex you are looking at like 20-30 bucks total. |
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