R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

Jerz616 12-25-2011 11:37 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10080436)
Thanks for your help! Now that I take a look at the Factory Team kit, I agree it's a nice option. Do you know if the only difference between the RTR and the Factory Team Kit is the shocks? Also, I would assume the Factory Team Kit is setup for a brushless motor?

I plan on going the 2wd route because after talking to guys at my LHS, I was told that the 2wd version is cheaper and much more reliable. Do you think that the 4x4 is worth the repair time and cost that it is, or would you recommend the 2wd to? Thanks!

There are quite a few differences. Like more aluminum parts, the ability to adjust setup. The FT kit can take anything you want, brushed or brushless. But I would suggest brushless. You said you have a castle system which would be a good fit for the 2wd.

I have a slash 4x4 that was an RTR and I spent more to upgrade it the i spent on the the truck itself. It can be a handful as far as maintenance vs. a 2wd. I am waiting to get my 2wd SC10 tomorrow, but I have a T4 and a b4.1 and they are both team kits. I think the 2wd will be more fun, and makes better drivers, where as the 4x4 are basically just point and shoot.

Go for the 2wd Team Kit and you will be more than satsified.

brent701 12-25-2011 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10080436)
Thanks for your help! Now that I take a look at the Factory Team kit, I agree it's a nice option. Do you know if the only difference between the RTR and the Factory Team Kit is the shocks? Also, I would assume the Factory Team Kit is setup for a brushless motor?

I plan on going the 2wd route because after talking to guys at my LHS, I was told that the 2wd version is cheaper and much more reliable. Do you think that the 4x4 is worth the repair time and cost that it is, or would you recommend the 2wd to? Thanks!

The FT kit comes with a few better parts. more adjustable parts better shocks. Upgraded V2 slipper system.
It's worth it if you are going to race and installing your own electronics system

I wouldn't run the Sidewinder from Castle. If you are set on castle. get the MMP instead. You have more motor options that way. I would run a Sensored motor over the castle motors, much smoother

the 4x4 is a little more up front. repairs are about the same. I have 1 of each and I have not had a problem with the 4x4. The 4x4 class is a little more violent than the 2wd classes are.

2wd will make you a smoother better driver than the 4x4 will. The 4x4 are just nasty fast

Lake Ober 12-25-2011 12:41 PM

Thanks guys, this info is great! I agree with what you are all saying about the 4x4 version. And what is your opinion as far as that best brushless systems to use for the FT SC10? Is there a forum favorite for racing such as an LRP model or something?

Jerz616 12-25-2011 01:03 PM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10080710)
Thanks guys, this info is great! I agree with what you are all saying about the 4x4 version. And what is your opinion as far as that best brushless systems to use for the FT SC10? Is there a forum favorite for racing such as an LRP model or something?

That is as open a question as asking favorite color. I personally use Castle, Tekin, and trinity. I will be using a MMP with an 8.5 Trinity D3. All the MFG's have threads on here to help and ask questions.

Cain 12-25-2011 03:37 PM

keep in mind the factory team comes with carbon parts that are more prone to break due to them being more rigid which a racer would want.

I have seen SC10RS rollers (people parting them out) go for as low as $110 shipped without electronics brand new.

Personally, if I was just getting into this I probably would pick up the SC10RS roller and maybe a ball diff down the road.

As for electronics, as the class is full mod you want something raceable however you need to be in control too. Don't be scared to start with a slower motor. a 13.5 or 10.5 would work well.

ESC I like the MMP as long as you use a servo that doesn't draw too hard on it (no savox). if you don't want timing features, I liked my old school Novak Havoc or that speed Passion cirtix woudl work well and be cheap.

For motors, if its rebuildable as far as the stator goes I lean towards that so i can just buy the stator and have a new motor essentially. I run Novak Ballistics because of this, but have had good luck with speed passion stuff. Loads of torque.



here is a question guys, I am getting a clicking sound on my daughters SC10, I am assuming this is the gear diff internals causing the issue and needs a rebuild but NOT the actual gear diff (the plastic teeth outer).

Pretty much click click click when she punches it in something thick. Just want to confirm the click click is the metal gears. Also, anyone got a close up of what good gear diff internal gears should look like?

brent701 12-25-2011 03:43 PM


Originally Posted by Cain (Post 10081082)
keep in mind the factory team comes with carbon parts that are more prone to break due to them being more rigid which a racer would want.

I have seen SC10RS rollers (people parting them out) go for as low as $110 shipped without electronics brand new.

Personally, if I was just getting into this I probably would pick up the SC10RS roller and maybe a ball diff down the road.

As for electronics, as the class is full mod you want something raceable however you need to be in control too. Don't be scared to start with a slower motor. a 13.5 or 10.5 would work well.

ESC I like the MMP as long as you use a servo that doesn't draw too hard on it (no savox).



here is a question guys, I am getting a clicking sound on my daughters SC10, I am assuming this is the gear diff internals causing the issue and needs a rebuild but NOT the actual gear diff (the plastic teeth outer).

Pretty much click click click when she punches it in something thick.

Rebuild the gear diff. The internal gears are clicking

HighLife420 12-25-2011 03:57 PM

First off, Happy Holidays to you and your family.

If you are new, not knowing anything...for sure go for the RS over the Factory. As people have said, the FT comes with carbon composite parts that will and do break easily. They also shed weight with some blue ally parts and a carbon fiber battery strap. I killed my carbon strap trying to throw a turnigy battery (Slightly taller than a normal 5k mah pack). The weight savings...well...me and quite a few others are ADDING weight to our trucks. So other than the bling effect, its probably a better options for you to get the RS.

Now, if you have raced before, know what the difference between parts being rigid, then you will be much happier with the Factory team. Its a solid race truck, simple to work on and parts are available everywhere. You will appreciate the tuning available with the ball diff, also notice a slight temp decrease using the slotted motor plate. If you running stock class that allows timing, any temp drop you can do is huge.

Either way, i would get the RPM front bumper, and front arms right off the bat. Ive broke more front arms than anything...since ive replaced them with the RPM arms and bumper, its been dam near bullet proof.

If you have money to burn, get good electronics, good TX and a good servo....even with the RS, those components will make a huge difference in how well your car performs. I tell everyone, the best upgrade i made so far is a new Tx/Rx...went from Airtronics MX sport, to a Futaba 3PM and now a Futaba 3PKS. All i have to say is there is truly a difference in Tx. The feel, the speed, the ability to adjust almost everything, made me a MUCH smoother driver.

forwardonly 12-25-2011 05:01 PM

FT or not, good electronics and good tires will make the biggest difference. I love the FT, it seems bulletproof to me (I just race and I'm used to 1/10 buggy). But the Rs or plain team kit would be fine to start with if you get good tires. The stock ones are not good for racing, especially on the rear. I'm not sure how good the stock RS electronics are, but I don't believe the esc/motor is sensored which is preferred for racing.

Figure out which kit you want.
Get a good sensored esc/motor
Get a good high torque fast servo
Get a good set of race tires for your track

And have fun!

HighLife420 12-25-2011 05:29 PM

Oh, +1 on tires, for sure need to replace the stock RS ones. They are HORRIBLE for anything other than messing around on the street.

Really either way though, you will need tires.

nadan805 12-26-2011 06:32 AM

Can you swap the outdrives on a ball diff? I don't think so because the trust bolt head has to be on the slipper side. Anyone broke as me? haha

Lake Ober 12-26-2011 10:37 AM

Well, I just went ahead and placed my order today with Tower Hobbies. I ordered the FT kit as I have done a lot of research on it and found it to be an awesome kit. I used to race my Nitro truck, but this will be my first electric short course truck. In addition to the FT kit, I also ordered the RPM bumper assembly, front and rear RPM A-Arms, and the proper sized hinge pins for the A-Arms. I read online that a good part to get for the stock SC10's is the Factory Team carbon top plate (associated part #9567). However, I wasn't sure if the FT kit includes this piece... does anyone know if it does?

And as far as electronics go, I already have an extra Airtronics 92744 receiver that I plan to place in this truck, and have an Aitronics MX-3X TX to control it. I am not yet decided what type of ESC/motor I plan on putting it it yet, but am thinking something along the lines of the MMP or similar.

Two other question I have about the FT kit I was curious if anyone knew, was:

1. Should I shim the diff. on this truck right off the bat? I have a E=Revo 1/16 VXL, and EVERYONE states that it is best to shim the diff. on them right away, b/c if you don't the gears wear down quickly (I did shim mine later on, and it was a major help). So I didn't know if this was something the people recommend on the FT SC10 to?

2. Also, what are some upgrades that people recommend right off the bat when it comes to the FT SC10? Are there any parts that are nearly guaranteed to break and I should just replace with a stronger part right off the bat?

Thanks guys! I appreciate the help :)

Jerz616 12-26-2011 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10083266)
Well, I just went ahead and placed my order today with Tower Hobbies. I ordered the FT kit as I have done a lot of research on it and found it to be an awesome kit. I used to race my Nitro truck, but this will be my first electric short course truck. In addition to the FT kit, I also ordered the RPM bumper assembly, front and rear RPM A-Arms, and the proper sized hinge pins for the A-Arms. I read online that a good part to get for the stock SC10's is the Factory Team carbon top plate (associated part #9567). However, I wasn't sure if the FT kit includes this piece... does anyone know if it does?

And as far as electronics go, I already have an extra Airtronics 92744 receiver that I plan to place in this truck, and have an Aitronics MX-3X TX to control it. I am not yet decided what type of ESC/motor I plan on putting it it yet, but am thinking something along the lines of the MMP or similar.

Two other question I have about the FT kit I was curious if anyone knew, was:

1. Should I shim the diff. on this truck right off the bat? I have a E=Revo 1/16 VXL, and EVERYONE states that it is best to shim the diff. on them right away, b/c if you don't the gears wear down quickly (I did shim mine later on, and it was a major help). So I didn't know if this was something the people recommend on the FT SC10 to?

2. Also, what are some upgrades that people recommend right off the bat when it comes to the FT SC10? Are there any parts that are nearly guaranteed to break and I should just replace with a stronger part right off the bat?

Thanks guys! I appreciate the help :)


I don't think shimming the diff is necessary. The FT kit has a ball diff not a gear diff like your revo.

Make sure you get some good tires for your track. I just picked my SC10 up today with some Jconcepts double D's for the rear, and plan to use the subcultures for the front. The stock front;s are crap.

If you bought the RPM arms then you should be good. They don't break like the FT arms, but they also don't have the feel that the FT arms do. They have a lot more flex to them. I would build the truck with the FT arms and see what you think, and if you do break them then put on the RPM stuff. I think if you are going to race you will like the kit arms better.

Lake Ober 12-26-2011 11:21 AM


Originally Posted by Jerz616 (Post 10083286)
I don't think shimming the diff is necessary. The FT kit has a ball diff not a gear diff like your revo.

Make sure you get some good tires for your track. I just picked my SC10 up today with some Jconcepts double D's for the rear, and plan to use the subcultures for the front. The stock front;s are crap.

If you bought the RPM arms then you should be good. They don't break like the FT arms, but they also don't have the feel that the FT arms do. They have a lot more flex to them. I would build the truck with the FT arms and see what you think, and if you do break them then put on the RPM stuff. I think if you are going to race you will like the kit arms better.

Sounds good, I think I'll do that. Do you think getting the carbon top plate I listed is a good idea to get?

Jerz616 12-26-2011 11:25 AM


Originally Posted by Lake Ober (Post 10083399)
Sounds good, I think I'll do that. Do you think getting the carbon top plate I listed is a good idea to get?

I am not 100% sure if the FT has it or not, but I think it would give you a little more feel in the front end. I don't really know though. If it doesn't come in the kit I don't think it would be necessary purchase just yet. Someone else could probably weigh in on that better then myself.

Jerm13 12-26-2011 02:25 PM


Originally Posted by Jerz616 (Post 10083417)
I am not 100% sure if the FT has it or not, but I think it would give you a little more feel in the front end. I don't really know though. If it doesn't come in the kit I don't think it would be necessary purchase just yet. Someone else could probably weigh in on that better then myself.

It isnt a carbon fiber but a carobon composit piece. If you buy the FT kit it will come with it, just like the A-arms and shock towers. But the RS comes with just a touch softer plastics/ composit pieces and they will work just fine.
I bought mine when the first came out and they didnt offer a FT kit or RTR at the time. So you got what you got. Its lasted 2 years for me. Havent boke an arm or chassis yet.
The ft will be more responsive on the track but the regular/ RS stuff should be a little more forgiving in crashes.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:37 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.