RCshox Garodisc now available for the SC10!! this is the same basic disc that is being used by everyone on the SC104x4. you can actually use the slipper like its suppose to be used, even while slipping it can still pull the wheels! very easy to adjust and doesn require "micro" turns to get it dialed in!
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...products_id=56
proto type pic:
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...1-08173535.jpg

Interesting Guy, I have the exact opposite problem. Can't get my truck to rotate at all, pushes on and off power.I have no idea what to do.

I was running on a pretty high bite, traction roll track but it was dusty! lol I am going to take out a few limiters in the front shocks, maybe its to much steering..

Make sure your "servo saver" is working properly.

I'm running one of each, and I can't honestly tell you which is which at this point as they have both been out at the same time and possibly swapped. Just make sure not to use too much grease when you put it together and be patient when you break it in. I generally put the diff together and tighten it to finger snug - not tight - and then I start the break in process, tightening about 1/4 turn after each break in cycle (~15% throttle while holding one tire, then swap). After I get to the point that the diff screw is snug after 3 consecutive cycles I leave it alone and make any further adjustment at the track. A diff that is just a touch too loose isn't bad - just more prone to "diffing out" coming out of the corner. A diff that is too tight will be very difficult to get into a corner without spinning.

Diffing Out: Basically it means the diff is not hooking up, and can be caused by a few things, mainly worn diff gears (that may look fine, but will not mesh properly... generally it is because the teeth on the inner diff gears get "shark-toothed" and will bark under load) or too light of diff fluid (causing the diff to spin freely and not apply torque to the non-load bearing side, typically the inside). Generally you will be "diffing out" coming out of a corner under power (where the differential speed of the outer vs. the inner tire is the greatest).

The problem you are experiencing is probably the diff locking up and can be caused by the diff being over full with fluid or too tightly shimmed.

5700kv Gearing
 

5700kv 2 pole,16\83 current. I've been reading through the post. Seems most on here are running 20 or higher pinions and in the mid 70's spur. Am I that far off?:confused: Can someone please give me a good starting point.

hmmm, will check tonight. Anyway to "fix" it other than glueing?

Gear to motor temp. You are closer to what I have in mine and I have a 5700kV as well. You don't really want to come off the track with a cool motor but you don't want a blazing hot 180 degree motor either. The type of track you run on will dictate this more than anything else (other than a bad gear mesh or pulliing a trailer full of boat anchors).

You could special order a much stronger spring I suppose. If you have a metal gear servo you don't need the saver anyway. I suppose you could find someone to machine you a new single piece unit too. That actually sounds like the best idea. Wish I had my own mill...

Well I could drop my Savox HV in there from the 8ight, outdoor season is pretty much done here. And I guess a trip to my friends Bridgeport is on the menu, or tell my roomate to write up a CAD program. Would the rest of you guys be interested in a one piece unit if I can get them made?

You could find a bunch of people interested if you could do it for under $25-$30, that's what STRC charges for theirs. The quality would need to be as good or better than theirs as well

Well my roommates labor is free, and they are small enough that we will probably be milling from throw away scrap material. If I can get him to make some I will distribute for the cost of shipping plus a few bucks to cover beer $$$ for the roommate.

I'll be your first customer just let me know the details

I always up for helping out another guys beer fund if I can!!!

Thanks bro. I usally gear to a temp of 130 or lower. I'm very protective of my electronics. I'd rather loose a race than cook my motor or thermal my speedo. But, after reading some of the post. I thought I was way off base. Cool, least I know I'm in the ball park. Thanks again!

im the opposite, i like to push my motors to the limit. if im not temping between 140-160/170 i'm not happy