Ok I get what your saying. but I have a mamba max 5700kv and dont know where to start. (what is a 5700 equal to in terms of turns?) I had a 25 pinion and 75 spur and all it did was wheelie over on its self. I know have a 18 pinion and a 87 spur and it seems better. but is still strong under power. i havent mad a full run since I havent been to the track yet . but I am running a 30c 54000mah lipo also.

I was practicing tonight at MHOR here in Denver and after 8-10 minutes I was at 170-175. I am running 75/23 with a Novak GTB 13.5 and Carbon 3800 30c batteries. I am going to go down 2 teeth on my pinion and see how that does racing tomorrow night.

[QUOTE=ThisDougsForU;5685859]The Novak 17.5 system is the first brushless I've ever had. When I set it up today, I put a 25t pinion with the 75t spur. I really haven't gotten to run it much yet to see how it does....I should be gearing on the safe side right ?[/QUOT

I am geared at 28/75.I have not had it on the track yet, I think it well be 27/28/29. I think a 25 is two low,but it also goes back to are you wide open up an down the streets or in a tight spot in your back yard? The best thing you can do with a Brushless motor is temp it! I would run it in the normal conditions for a minute and temp it. Like the Diabetes comnercial check it and check it often!!

[QUOTE=SikKustomz;5685965]I'm gonna be racing it. I don't have a temp gun but I'm sure I can bum one off someone at the track. I'll try and pick up another pinion with a couple more teeth.

What's this 'cutting out'? Which esc and what motor do you have?

He must have the Havok system, There are problems with it.

Well... I got to drive my sc10 for the first time tonight at hotrod raceway.

This truck is a handful..!! I am used to driving a slash and a fully modded slash, but this thing was tough to drive.

I started with a 13.5 motor in it, but for some mysterious reason it took a dump on me after 2 laps.. I am sure this is no reason of the truck.. It hadnt been used in a while so I am sure it was bound to happen. I then put in a 10.5 that I had sitting around, and I sure this is too much motor.

But, there are a few chassis setup items that I need to change, that I am sure will calm the truck down a bit.

1. 3000k diff oil is WAY to much! The truck was spinning out everywhere.. On straights, out of corners, you name it.. And yes I was being super mellow on the trigger, and the track was watered. I think I may go to like a 20wt shock oil, or even to the grease that the kit calls for..

2. The rear sway bar is no good.. Even with the lightest bar. That is coming off for next test and tune.

3. There needs to be some weight added. This truck is so light compared to the slash, that it has problems staying hooked up. I will be adding a few ounces of weight to the rear of the chassis.

I can see the potential. I am sure with a few tweaks it will be pretty dialed. I think the 13.5 motor that I originally had in it would be about perfect for being fast and manageable.

I do know it looks killer! It is still a head turner... alot of people have still never seen the truck in person.

Anybody else out there have some chassis setup tricks that they have learned since driving??? I cant wait to get this baby dialed, its going to be fun!

Check out the pics.

Jasun

Hey nice looking SC10.:nod::nod:

Great looking SC10s in here! I bet you guys are having a blast with yours.

I'm sure you guys have noticed, but there are four independent SC10 threads going! There's gotta be a way for admins to marry them all...

So what do you guys recommend for the diff oil or stick with grease? Much thanks...

Well I'm running the black grease and so is the Associated team. Until they do something different I feel its the best setup.
As far as the gearing for the Hacker motors it also depends on the wind. I've run their 10.5 geared at 75/23 and the 17.5 geared at 75/27 with good results as far as heat. Temp guns are relatively inexpensive these days and if you have one temp the motor at the endbell as close to the center as possible to get the best reading. Now on the Novak motors. I ran a 13.5 for almost two years with no problems and then it started having the stutter problem. Novak has very good customer service and I hate their having problems. You can send in your old motors and they'll replace it for a fee but its better than taking up space in your box.

Well I went to Mamba's website and the 5700 series is equal to a 9 or 10 turn brushed motor so make sure you run the 87 spur and 18 or below pinion. Thats alot of motor!

Don't you guys have to meet a minimum weight for your trucks? I have had to add all kinds of weight to my SC10 to make weight for our modified short course class because my local track bases the weight on the heaviest truck in the class (slash).

Jasun,

Nice looking truck. Simple, but clean and effective.

What classes did/does Hot Rod have for these trucks? I had expected only one class for stock based motors per ROAR's draft rule for short course trucks.

I have a front link question. Im running out side on the tower and middle hole on the caster block. I also have 2washers under the ball stud. I put one more under the ball stud and it was working in the right direction but I dont like that many washers under there and needed a little more than just the washer. Next step is a longer link but, do I move the ball stud in a hole or move the link out on the outside? I know theres a diffrents from the inside and out side with the same lenght link but cant remember what.

Any help would be great. Thanks

DK