If you buy the kit there is a page towards the back that will give you a good starting point on what pinion to put on it.

hey i just got mine built and i rolled it on my table and it will only roll about a foot and then the wheels will kinda bind or lock and skid across my table. there are no electronics in my truck. is this normal? from my past buggies/truck im thinking not. anybody?:(

Probably something put together wrong in the Tranny.

Nope, I thought that too but if you look closer, they both show the cut.

i take it youres will roll freely? the only thing i think it could be is the diff but it seemed good before i installed it in the tranny case.

Just checked and mine rolls freely......no electronics either.

OK got a dumb one you guys have probably answered 100 times....so here goes.

I have a T4...can I put my:

RPM front arms on/they are much better than the frail T4 arms?

Ball Diff?

What else? Direct replacements only...

So are they simple drop in replacements or to add the ball diff do I have to change anything? I am not sure why people preferr the gear diff??? Am I missing something?

yeah, mine rub a little i wouldn't worry about it. with most new kits some parts will have to work in to be free. if you try and free everything up from the start, it just means they'll get sloppy a lot sooner than normal.

i built mine box stock and all parts seem to have went together great. i don't have any steering rack issues. it moves very freely with just the bushings. the 2 shafts in the diff should be the same with both having cut out section in the middle.
i used 40wt. shock oil front and rear and packed the diff with heavy gear grease. i'll have to wait until monday night practice to try it out and make some suspension changes and maybe add a little weight up front.

Same here, no motor hooked up but rolls fine.

SpeedyDad,

I think you may be correct. The manual says 9828 cross pin X2. which means both pin should have the cuts...

yes the rpm arms will fit. the ball diffs are lighter and easier to tune/adjust. the gear diff can be adjusted by changing the weight of the diff lube, as in 1/8th scales. i'm not sure if the t4/b43 diff will fit right in or not. it looks like it would but i haven't tried it.

I haven't seen anything about this yet. The front wheels seem to be "loose" as if the axle is loose. This is my 1st associated vehicle, so I'm not familiar, but it's definitely looser than my others.

Both pins must have the cut in them or it will bind your diff. Your SC10 should roll freely on any flat surface without a motor in it. I would take that tranny apart and double check everything. Mine is as smooth as my T4. Check the instructions again and double check how you've put it together. Those four bevel gears have to be the same height or your going to have issues.

The actual wheel is loose? There is always a tad of play but not loose. Bearing fit tight in the wheels and very little play in the bearing to axle so I'm not sure what your asking. Associated has switched to a stronger ball cup that snaps on the ball stud but allows more play so this makes the whole vehicle feel sloppy.

Bolth my shafts in the diff have the cuts just like sc8 diffs. They should be identical

It seems to me to be where the axle goes through the steering block. I still haven't driven it yet, so it remains to be seen how it will affect it.