Old post but I can +1 that! I'm running 28/75 with the MMP using 20deg boost on smartsense and have the motor set to the 3rd to last tick mark, and still coming in under 110 after about 10 mins of almost all full throttle.

I'm not sure where to go from here, I want more midrange power and top end speed, should I go up in gearing and stick with smartsense or dial up more boost using the C.H.E.A.T settings?

Well if your only at 110deg then you can prolly gear up a a couple and try that. or you can Boost it. I run mine 25/75 cheat mode 5200-17000 at 45deg of timing and full timing on the can. Its EXTREMELY fast and still plenty cool for me. about 140-150 after 5min.

Anyone??

Am I close thinking that a change from one piston to the next equals approx. 5wt change in oil; example a #2 to a #3 is about the same as going to 5wt thinner oil?? Or am I way off??

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Mark

what K spring is close to the ae silver rear?

Theoretically you are correct. I prefer going to the #2 piston in the rear to give it more 'pack'. Depending on the track you race on you might even want to go with the #3 (smallest) piston up front.

Changing piston changes 'pack'. This is what you adjust to keep the chassis from slapping after a jump. (Of course how you 'downside' a jump will too.)

Thx for the info. I actually picked up ASC31511 M2x5mm capheads because I noticed the screw on the AE clamping hexes for the TC6 are the same as the JC hexes. I haven't tried them yet since it's just for my spare hex set. I don't even race my SC10 anymore so it may be a while before it even gets used.

Also, I have not seen anyone strip the actual hex, just the screws. It's odd because some of the capheads that it comes with are fine, but some do not go as deep as the others which is what causes the screw to get rounded out.

Got to race my sc10 for the first time Saturday. Indoor clay track. Kinda bumpy. And would get a thin layer of light dust and get loose... ran blue fronts green rears with 32.5 f/r .. sooo hard to drive. Could anyone explain why when I put on silver and gold springs and stiffened it ,it got so much better? It didn't make sense to me. . but I tried it.possibly just my driving style? I grew up racing touring.. then recently raced 1/8th truggy. So im used to having a decent bit of traction. This 2wd stuff is crazy lol

Hey guys,
I was searching around online and found what looks to be a nice aluminum steering servo saver set by Hot Racing http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

Has anyone tried this part by any chance? I'd be interested to give it a try... I've always thought the quality of HR stuff was pretty decent. Well, let me know what you guys think.

Hey Lake, that looks nice I might have to pick one of those up :sneaky:

There is a ton of slop in the stock setup so that aluminum steering setup will definatly help with that promblem.

I know a guy on here who has a huge sale listing, and in it is (3) of these, brand new. I asked him what he wants for one of them, and he said he wants to sell all 3 of them together for $50 shipped. If you are seriously interested in them, I maybe can get him to sell 2 of them to me. Let me know, they'd prolly be like $20 each. No pressure, just thought I'd ask :)

He's probably selling them to get the new Avid solid steering set ;)

I got my set on the way!

Haha, yeah possibly :) I was looking at the Avid one (looks sick!), but deided against it because of it's solid design. I am still fairly new to the sport of indoor R/C racing (been a basher for years) and still hit the walls quite frequently with my SC10. I read a few reviews online about the Avid one, that says it isn't very good for people whom aren't advanced drivers, b/c it puts all the stress onto the servo itself instead of the saver spring. I'm not sure if this HR steering set has a spring in it (it looks like it does), but if it doesn't, I may still get it and just hold on to it until I get a bit better at driving :)

Just glue your saver for now. A glued saver still has plenty of flex to absorb impacts but you will benefit from a more consistent feel. Then go with the solid setup once you feel more confident

ran my sc10 with the GPM servo saver setup.

Loads of steering now, had to dial down the EXP on the servo as there was so much of it. for the price of it (I think it was $14 shipped), works quite well. I also did NOT use the center link. Kept the plastic for a bit of flex.