I'm new to the AE stuff just bought a Sc10 Rs model I'm wanting to switch to cvds like the FT model but keep my HEXS, if this is possible can someone tell me what to buy or part numbers it would be appreciated.
Thanks for any help

The shocks, v2 unthreaded, were in good shape. I refilled them w/ 30w.

I've been able to get away w/ the castle 3800 for a while now, but that was 4x4SC club racing. Thought I could make it work in the 2wd, I'm afraid I was mistaken.

I'm looking at the sensored options, probably 10.5 or 13.5.

I had the expo jacked way up, and same w/ the punch control. Until I find something else, I'll try running the punch control all the way up, and maybe try the torque test deal. Tried it once and it didn't seem to work, I'll try again.

Gearing is 23/87.

Thanks for the help....

Kit # 9678
yes you can keep your hex

Bit of an old post, but since I didn't see anyone reply to it, thought I'd post up the answer since I replaced the screws in my JC Hex hubs today. The hubs use a 2mm x 4.5 screw stock and that gets you about 2-3 threads worth of engagement. (read: just enough to strip out.. ask me how I know :cry:)

I went to my LHS and found a 2mm x 6 Dubro screw that fits perfectly and engages all the threads and allows you to actually clamp them down as designed. :)

I stripped the screw out on one of my rear JConcept aluminum hub adapters to. I didn't even turn it all that tight! :mad: However, I don't think we are the only ones who have had this problem... I have read about other people doing it as well. I didn't feel like paying shipping and ordering a new set of them, so now I just use them without the screw. I mean, yeah it comes off with the wheel and I have to pull it out with a pair of pliers, but I figure its not hurting anything to use them without the screw... I mean, without the screw they are essentially the same as the AE adapters, just in anodized aluminum :)

That kinda sucks. Not having them come off with the wheels was the whole reason I wanted them. Has anyone tried the ST's? And is it just the rear or the fronts as well? May cancel my order and swap them out.

I stripped my JConcepts hex adapter as well.

Just don't over tighten them. They aren't made to be tightened till no tomorrow. Just tight enough to stay on the axle.

So is it the screw or the adapter that gets stripped? I've got tons of hardend steel set screw I could use, but I'm guessing it's the adaptor.

That's what I think is crazy, I didn't tighten them too much at all. I am always very cautious about over tightening stuff.

the adapter

I installed mine 3 months ago and have not had to remove them yet. Still holding still working.

I'll give the STRC's a shot and see how it works. I saw a review from a local guy on amain saying the same thing. The AE FT hexes for the 4x4 work great, not sure why they can't apply the same design to the 2wd truck.

Something else I just realized, I'm guessing there is no good way to mount the rear sway bar on the RPM rear arms? What's the best alternative or is the stock good enough for race conditions?

I guess I'll just pickup some long-thread balls and drill them in myself.

The axle pin is twice the size. The hex is larger. will not allow the axle nut to fully set on the wheel and it will hit the non threaded part of the axle. You can run washers though.

I have them on the 4x4's and they sometimes will come off with the wheel

I have ran the STRC hex's and Didn't like them. The front added width I didn't want.

I've changed the wheels a couple of times since I posted that and the AE's haven't come off yet like I was expecting them too, so I'll just stick with those until something better comes along.