Re: Novak Ballistic, blinky or no timing classes.

IMO Novak puts the label on at 30 degrees where it's really zero as a head fake to customers, to keep people from taking the motor out of the package and turning it up - with those motors, a little goes a long way.

Based on what I've seen on the chassis dyno in my oval car, the Novak motor won't take much more timing that 44-46 degrees (on the sticker) before the dyno RPMs start going DOWN but the amp draw continues to go UP. That means you are making less power but making more heat for your trouble. And, on the edge, it's very sensitive. On any motor I've ever dynoed, the optimum setup has been with the timing hash mark either on, or just behind the 45 degree mark.

wouldn't that mean then it really is 30 degrees since you can't go much higher than that? Or maybe I am missing something ...

In your opinion, for boosting ESCs, do you just add the little bit of timing to the novaks N / 30 degree position or do you retard timing and do it on the ESC?

Novak's motors are per their sticker on the can set at 30 degs. You can go + or - 15 degs for a total of 15 degs or 45 degs. If 30 is the zero mark. I guess really you can retard the timing 15 degs and advance it 15 degs.
Depends on who you talk to at Novak I guess.

You can also add timing with the ESC which only advances it. You can also set when you want the timing to kick in (RPM)

yeah thats what I was thinking that its a real 30 degree, not a zero degree. They probably got away from that whole N business because of the confusion I would suspect.

Main thing is to take into account the 30 degrees on setting the boosting features for timing, etc.

I am looking to try some timing settings with a MMP and a ballistic setup with a 13.5 . Looking for a starting point.

I have not used a MMP hooked as sensored So not sure if it has boost or not.
I would start with lowest timing though and check temp.

The Havoc pro only has timing

My Viper's have timing and boost

yeah the MMP has a variety of stuff, I honestly haven't played with it at all but want to give it a shot for the next race and see how it goes.

it does, they call it cheat , and you can select when and how much to kick in.

I ordered the Trinity D3 17.5 motor and would also like some suggestions for a good starting point in gearing. The class allows boost as well so I've got a lot of options to play with.

26/75 no boost. With boost, it'd be lower.

I'd run the motor at 30 degrees and ramp 10 degrees of timing in the speed control starting at 5000 rpms to start.

Leave it at 30, which is N, and do it in the speed control (10 extra degrees to start). I edited my earlier post because it was confusing.

I know some people have had luck in the lower wind motors retarding the timing on the motor 5 degrees (to 25) and putting it back in (15 degrees) with the speed control around 5k RPMs. Takes a little punch out down low, more rip in the middle and up top.

Hub carrier bearings toast!
 

I am new to the hobby and have been enjoying my sc10 however, today I noticed both rear wheels wobbling. I removed the wheels to find all four bearings are toast. Is this normal wear and tear and do they need to be replaced often or did something go wrong? Any advise would be great.

Big thanks!

Thanks. With the part's I've ordered & the spurs in the kit my gearing options are:

24/75
24/81
24/87
28/75
28/81
28/87

Was thinking of starting at 24/81 then adding boost a little at a time. What's the sweet spot as far as temp on the D3?

How big is the track?

First race will be Friday at a small indoor carpet, don't really care much about top performance at that track, then another the next weekend on an open 1/8 scale with two straights about 25 yards long:

Bigger track:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7sv-KRukjk