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-   -   SC10 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/286773-sc10-thread.html)

StockRacer 01-23-2012 07:12 PM

Im trying to gear my sc10 for a 7.5 and Im a little stumped. I have a 72, 75, and 78 spur gear and if you shout out a number I more than likely have the pinion that would work. Just looking for a starting point.

Cain 01-23-2012 07:19 PM

looks like you need a bigger spur gear like an 84T based on what AE is showing in the SC10 FT manual.

They basically go down a tooth for each motor type. so in your case, a 7.5 you would use 16T pinion with an 84T spur if that method holds true.

not sure though if there is enough room to do that.

brent701 01-23-2012 07:38 PM


Originally Posted by StockRacer (Post 10216948)
Im trying to gear my sc10 for a 7.5 and Im a little stumped. I have a 72, 75, and 78 spur gear and if you shout out a number I more than likely have the pinion that would work. Just looking for a starting point.

If you are running a Novak. They say to run it at a 11 FDR
17/72 = 11.01
18/78 = 11.27
19/81 = 11.08
20/84 = 10.92


I have done the same thing off their web site with my 13.5T it moves very well. I think I have a bad rotor though

StockRacer 01-23-2012 07:45 PM

its and lrp motor and esc

JEFFs SC10 01-23-2012 07:57 PM

I noticed that I have the RS hex conversion on my new ftsc10. the hexes are cool but you can't adjust the height of the axle. :flaming: I don't think its critical but I will be switching it out to a Proline hub so I can shim the axle up or down. Im sure it makes enough of a difference to the pro drivers. Wonder why they didn't make the hub shorter to put in the spacers. :confused:

Cain 01-23-2012 08:49 PM


Originally Posted by brent701 (Post 10217127)
If you are running a Novak. They say to run it at a 11 FDR
17/72 = 11.01
18/78 = 11.27
19/81 = 11.08
20/84 = 10.92


I have done the same thing off their web site with my 13.5T it moves very well. I think I have a bad rotor though

never mind, I think this is it:

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/b...r_gearing.html

one interesting thing though is they say "0" timing. On a novak, do they mean the N timing which is really 30 degrees?

brent701 01-23-2012 09:29 PM


Originally Posted by Cain (Post 10217532)
never mind, I think this is it:

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/b...r_gearing.html

one interesting thing though is they say "0" timing. On a novak, do they mean the N timing which is really 30 degrees?

yes they mean 30 degs, that's factory setting

and That is where I got the 11 FDR from

AlanHall 01-23-2012 11:31 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10217237)
I noticed that I have the RS hex conversion on my new ftsc10. the hexes are cool but you can't adjust the height of the axle. :flaming: I don't think its critical but I will be switching it out to a Proline hub so I can shim the axle up or down. Im sure it makes enough of a difference to the pro drivers. Wonder why they didn't make the hub shorter to put in the spacers. :confused:

I just converted mine tonight. Lol. I thought something was wrong as first. Id imagine the hub could be sanded to give it clearance in order to use spacers.

nadan805 01-24-2012 06:25 AM

one interesting thing though is they say "0" timing. On a novak, do they mean the N timing which is really 30 degrees?[/QUOTE]

The N must mean Neutral or something. I had my ballistic running advanced timing on a 8.5T on accident. :eek::tire:

gamedog1966 01-24-2012 06:27 AM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10215736)
question, i just picked up a practically new FTSC10 off a member here. This thing is cherry. BUT I ran into a problem.

This has the hex conversion done to it.

When I go to tighten the rear wheels it binds, plus I have to run a washer on the outside of the wheel to make sure it sits square otherwise it weeble wobbles something bad. WTF. So I have to snug the wheel so it'll spin freely but the wheel has a little too much play and I'm sure that will affect performance.

Is there something missing here that I'm not aware of?

i'm not sure which hex conversion it is, but it slips right over the pin that's it. It seems like its missing shims or something. :confused:
can someone help a brotha out? :smile:

I was just having the same prob last week, well take the axle off and remove the bearings and make sure that the c clip is n the center slot on the axle nearest the treads and see if this takes care of your prob

kc_nitro_rc 01-24-2012 06:29 AM


Originally Posted by StockRacer (Post 10216948)
Im trying to gear my sc10 for a 7.5 and Im a little stumped. I have a 72, 75, and 78 spur gear and if you shout out a number I more than likely have the pinion that would work. Just looking for a starting point.

I ran 18/84 with a Tekin Redline 6.5.
You might want to 'de-tune' your motor via the ESC. (Current limiting of some sort)

gamedog1966 01-24-2012 06:42 AM

bb springs
 
What bb springs are the team drivers running on indoor ,tight high bite clay? Can anybody help me?

AlanHall 01-24-2012 06:54 AM


Originally Posted by gamedog1966 (Post 10218857)
I was just having the same prob last week, well take the axle off and remove the bearings and make sure that the c clip is n the center slot on the axle nearest the treads and see if this takes care of your prob

crap.. i may have to get some new e clips if this is the same for the front.. i didnt use them :lol: but i havent tried any wheels yet.

Cain 01-24-2012 07:01 AM


Originally Posted by brent701 (Post 10217692)
yes they mean 30 degs, that's factory setting

and That is where I got the 11 FDR from

Got a response from novak, the 0 degrees they were referring to was in reference to the ESC setting as well as leaving the timing on the motor at 30 degrees / N.

So if you are using a boosting ESC, keep that in mind with your FDR.

AssocRacer 01-24-2012 07:15 AM

Got one for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10219068


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