Ok. I wasent sure how different they were length wise.

Keeping them square with the shock bodies, all springs bend when they are compressed. The problem is they are so light to get the spring rate correct, when they are compressed, they "dump" to one side. Rubbing on the shock is just a symptiom of the problem, and we could argue how significant it is but the fact is it should never ever happen. Increasing the air gap between the spring and the shock is one way to handle it.

But don't take my word for it. Jeff cited the post Tim@AE made on the subject in the B4.1 thread:

The long and short of it is the big bores are coming from AE, and soon. To me, the shock isn't a big deal, but the spring is. Some of us don't want to wait.

The rear's are about the same length but they are almost twice the diameter.

The front's are longer on the 4x4 by abut 1/4" to 1/2" and are twice the diameter

I thought about it a while ago if they would work. They aren't made for a light truck like the 2wd and with 8 cars/trucks to rebuild I don't have the time to try to space one out to fit on the tower or the a-arm.

Plus your spring selection is uber limited, which is the biggest issue. I think everyone can agree there's some real barriers to getting them mounted on 2w chassis.

Again, IMO, there is NOTHING wrong with the stock AE shocks. I don't even have V2's!

I'm still having problems with my rear shocks allowing air in under the bleeder caps. I built them again just like the video on youtube with 0 rebound. When I finish thay are fine but as soon as I pull the shaft out to put the springs on you can hear the air go in. Then if you push the shaft back up it's full of air and only goes half way up unless you force it,then it rebounds half way out. I even marked where the leaks are and it's the same every time. I've replace everything but the shock bodies. I don't get it. I will be contacting AE tomorrow. So far i'm not impressed with these shocks.:flaming:

Agree..

I have the V2's though. lol

The only advantage of the V2 over the V1 is the ease of working with the O-rings. Other than that, the V1's work fine. I used V1's for quite a while.

Anybody know if the stock brushless motor that comes on the SC10 is sensored or not? It's a 17.5 turn, right?

Chris

It is not Sensored and it is equiluvant to a 13.5, some may even say it is more like a "12.5" because it is more powerful than a standard 13.5. It is a decent motor and very fast you just need to watch your temps with that motor

I was afraid you might say that...I was hoping it was sensored, so I could run it in my Losi Crawler. :) Oh well...time to spend more money.

Chris

Hey, that's me :D

Yes, Revtech is awesome for NT or "blinky" classes, but if you're running 17.5 boosted, the D3 should have a better powerband from what I've heard.

With that said, I gear my Revtech in 17.5 blinky at 75/26, with max timing on the can. Comes off at 150F after 6 mins. It's stupid fast. Unfortunately I haven't run my SC in a while and have been focusing on my buggies. I'm waiting on a good BB spring setup for the SC10. I tried driving it last week and it felt like crap after getting used to the B4/B44 with Losi BBs.

anybody ever tried adding a little clay to the inside of the rear wheels in order to increase the effect of throttle and brake input in the air?

shocks
 

I have seen kyosho shocks and springs on a b4.1 I wonder bhow would they perfom on a sc 10. Would they mess up the suspension geometry of the truck n any negative way? Can someone help me?:confused:

Broke out in hives
 

Tried the 'big bore' Kyosho & Losi springs on my SC10 and the truck broke out in hives. Had to remove them.

couple.buddies of mine run them with great results. Kyosho shocks are awesome.