I was wondering that myself :nod:

Also, what does everyone do to prepare your vehicles for a big race? :tire: I usually redo the diffs and check for broken or bent parts to replace. Should I replace parts, if there is slop or shim the difference?

http://www.vijaytransformers.com
 

Dry type Transformers, Power Transformers, Distribution Transformers, Special type Transformers, Resin cast Transformers & Manufacturers.

Go a freakin' way!!! :flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming::flam ing::flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming::flaming:: flaming:

Lack of steering trim
 

Tried adjusting the horn but I still run out of steering trim to get the truck to run straight. When gluing the servo saver, I noticed that the 2 pieces where not totally seated by the time the glue dried. Wondering if that could be the problem. I have the stock ae radio. Help and thanks.

Take the horn off, center the radio trim, and reinstall the horn with the steering as close to center as you can get it. If you steer one way more than another because of a binding issue it might be because the control arm extending from the servo horn to the bellcrank is too long. Try shortening it up a bit and repeat the process.

Settle down dude, your screaming post takes up as much space as his spam post. :lol:

i recently bought a sc10 sct and i really like it alot. i used to have nitro but not anymore. brushless power is so much more faster and fun.

yeah it is a blast and glad you like it.

ok im sure its been mentioned and ive tried a search came up with nothing



i have a FT SC10 2wd truck im currently running dirt oval with it and a edm/imca style body in a local class now all sudden its broke 2 RR axles lastnite at practice it has a gear diff in it now and has had for last few months

first was the factory team CVA and second one was a reg dogbone setup



my ? is are there any better axle upgrades i can put in this thing

You broke the axle where the wheel bolts on, or you sheered the pins off the CVA where it meets the transmission outdrive?

If you broke it off at the transmission outdrive, I'd look closely at the outdrives and make sure they don't have a notch worn in them. You can take a file to them once or twice, but if there's much lash in them you'll break the pins off the CVA/dogbone from the shock loading on the motor.

And quiet. And clean. Welcome to the darkside!

I know this sounds like a joke but I use large body pins and cut the straight part out however long I want it for hex pins on my SC10 FT. I sheared a pin in the summer and did the body pin mod which has been fine for over 6 months 25+ races. Use a set of sidecutters to snip the straight part of a large body pin and I promise you that it will work better or as good as the axle pins. I use the alum. hex adapters. I ran body pins in the race below and had second until last corner and ended up third against as really tuff field!Good Luck!

broke at the cva connection the pin that hold the larger pin in the outter drive is still all assembled in the hub

and the stock style dogbone broke at the point were it becomes a ball with pins

Cva pic were it broke off


http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/3aae3279.jpg

before I got locking hexes I used to loose pins alot. I also used large body pins but when that ran out I snipped finishing nails to the right length and never had them bend or break...tough as nails! And $1 worth of nails should get you more than enough.

Thanks for the suggestions.