RTR vs Kit
 

After reading several of the SC10 threads I am going to get one for play and maybe race depending on class availability at my local track. I was looking at Amains website and found that the RTR is 199 and the kit is 169. Is there any difference in the truck itself -tranny, shocks etc between the rtr and the kit. I know that most RTR are built cheaper than the kits but reading the associated website, it appears that both are the same. I figure for 30 extra bucks getting a esc, motor and radio is a pretty good deal, even if they are replaced later, if the truck is the same and not built with cheaper parts in order to keep a lower price point. If any of you know the differences chime in please.

rtr does not come with extra spur.


get the rtr. dont bother with the kit.

:lol:NOT.

So the "missing" spur gear is the only thing different. If that was the case I can't see why anyone would buy the kit even if they had their own electrics. If that is the case, then I will get the rtr even though I enjoy building kits. I guess I can take it apart, throw it into a pile and then reassemble-lol

Thanks for all of the help.
I did use green slime and it does click, but it clinks too easily IMO. I'm going to get a rebuild kit and use all of the tips you all posted. :nod:

I bought the kit since yes, I am using my own electronics. I love building kits and this was my first AE and was a joy to assemble. I also wanted to do my own paint scheme since the kit comes with a clear body.

The way I see it you can't go wrong with either choice.

has anyone else noticed the oring on the shallow side of the rear diff tears easy? There are 2-3 sc10s arround here that keeps on tearing them very quickly. Looking at the oring grove it is not cut as deep as the other side that accually houses the diff gears. I have gon threw a few orings and just want to see if there are others with the same problem. It wouldnt be bad, but the last time the oring parts locked up my rear diff making the car very hard to drive.

well, for what its worth. the seal area in the body is .15 in. Larger than the FT T4, B4 shock bodies. possibly the o-rings arent making a sufficient seal. so your dimentionally same theory doesnt hold oil :lol:

my point.......AE makes good shocks for 1/10 off-road. certainly less complicated than your tutorial makes it appear. but hey some people like pic's right. i have found them easy to build and tune. and have never had a problem with them leaking or blowing seals, thats all.

first off what are you talking about? .150 bigger using the same O-rings, put the crack pipe down.

I don't have anything at home to measure the diameter of the seal area but my eye is pretty good and they are close.

the only FT shocks I have are TCs and they only use one o-ring. Is that what you are talking about, depth?

just to be sure I checked the part numbers and the 6440 is the kit and 5407 the seals in both the FT and SC10 shocks. I could check further but it was and is my understanding that all AE shocks use the same shock parts and are the same dimensions

oops....typo, .015 in. and i used a depth bore gauge. i'm talking about the inner bore for the o-rings and spacer. i just checked the O.D., not how deep. i was curious.

i agree, the parts are the same. i use them in my B4, BJ4, T4, stock sc10 shocks.
maybe the bores are a little out of tolerance or ??

crack pipe, dont be a dweeb. arent we all here to help our fellow racers, not insult them at the first chance ??

merely a comment on the magnitude of the typo:lol:

Just a nice pic...
 

Here's my SC10 getting some!

SC10 action
 

Here is some SC10 action from this weekend. I like the race format. Laps not time.

09 Hot Rod Shootout SC10 Demo Race.
Part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-DmrpCNCBM

Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81zUJ8mKab8

Nice track and some great racing:nod: