run the motor submersed in water at 3 volts for 10 minutes then blow it dry, oil and run.

Thanks for the heads up R40,Ballistic and Rick.
:nod:

I plan on putting it on the track this weekend.I was pretty surprised with it around the house this afternoon.

Pics?
 

Come people put up some pics:nod::D: Heres mine with the traxxs speedo & motor cause thats the class they race here..Sc8 rim & tires with T4 Uni's & shocks with the cuda front brace...Has losi 1 degree hubs. What yall think I like it hooks & handles great :D

there is pics in the sc10 pic thread.

pics
 

I scanned 10 pages & didnt see it...must of got pushed way back

;)

Thanks for the plug
Truck looks ready to go!

My diff started out smoothe. But after 3 race weekends it is making the clicking noise that other on here have already mentioned. If you hold one wheel and give it gas it sounds horrible. I was sure when i took the diff apart either the sun or planet gears would be stripped, but they looked fine. I'm still sure that's where my noise is coming from when i first get on the throttle and eventually the gears will wear. Some on here have mentioned shimming the gears to form a tighter mesh. Where are you applying the shims? I can't see a good way to shim it that will make a difference. You can't go behind the big spider or sun gear because it rest on the pin, unless you add one behind the pin and it makes it just enough tighter to help. The other option i can think of is to add shims behind the smaller bevel or planet gears to bring them closer in which will tighten the mesh??? What have you all done and what has worked to get rid of this issue? THANKS,

the rtr kit should have came diff shims but if you got the kit version i dont think it came with them... you have to put them on the inside of the diff on the bigger gear behind the pins that hold it on the outdrive so that way you have 2 shims instead on one . refer to page 7 in manual c2 section thnx Will G

Also, If you don't have the diffs, call AE and they will send them to you free.

*

I have the kit. So you saying just add 2 shims, one behind each spider gear just like the ones that are on there now? I just need 2 for each side instead of 1, right?

Thanks,

That is correct, you'll probably notice the original shims are distorted/cupped now.
I only added one extra, smaller diameter shim (from the outside on the outdrive next to the bearing) to only 1 side under the pin.
So it has, on one side, O ring, large dia. shim, small dia. shim then pin then gear.
My thought was that the smaller diameter shim would less likely get distorted/cupped like the larger one.
I also thought that it may not need both sides done since I had been running it for a couple weeks with no problems before it made any noise. I also caught it before it damaged the gears so I am still running the original gears.
I just didn't want to over shim it, something that goes wrong with differentials on real cars when we do them at home.
I have been running my truck like this for weeks and I race and practice a couple times a week, that's a lot of packs thru this truck and they are 5000 lipos!.

here are some pic's on where the shims go hope this helps..

http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=5352

I took both shims from the outside and moved them to the inside. I was afraid it would be too tight, but it seems fine. Drove the car around in tight circles on and off the throttle and it's fixed. Luckily i caught mine early enough too i didn't have to replace any gears. My only concern now is not having any shims on the outside between the diff case and cup. I could immediately notice after taking the shim away from the outside that it didn't turn as free against the plastic case. Cuda, Did you put any shims back on yours? I'm afrais the heat build up there could cause some melting issues on the diff case? But not sure if i was to re-shim the outer i would still be able to fit 2 shims on the inside. The pin obviously wouldn't go in as deep to let you access the hole. Guess i'll try it this way and see how it holds up. I'm running 5200 lipo's with a Novak 8.5, it's hooked. been neating up on all the xxxt's and T-4's at my local track. The only bad thing about this truck is the tires don't work on the rear, unless it's a super heavy track. IMO. I put some Bow Ties on the back of mine and it's so stuck now i can't the pu8sh out of it.

Yeh, I kept the shims on the outside, you should probably do the same.
I guess time will tell.
Hope it holds up for you.