R/C Tech Forums - SC10 Thread

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hey guys what should i gear my sc10 at with a 10.5

Quote:

Originally Posted by $Tmoney$ (Post 5989542)

hey guys what should i gear my sc10 at with a 10.5

You want your motor to come off at 155 degrees after a full qualifier. Or run your qualifiers at 145 degrees and then bump up to 160 for the main.
87/24 maybe for a start?

Quote:

Originally Posted by richardsonracin (Post 5989098)

I took both shims from the outside and moved them to the inside. I was afraid it would be too tight, but it seems fine. Drove the car around in tight circles on and off the throttle and it's fixed. Luckily i caught mine early enough too i didn't have to replace any gears. My only concern now is not having any shims on the outside between the diff case and cup. I could immediately notice after taking the shim away from the outside that it didn't turn as free against the plastic case. Cuda, Did you put any shims back on yours? I'm afrais the heat build up there could cause some melting issues on the diff case? But not sure if i was to re-shim the outer i would still be able to fit 2 shims on the inside. The pin obviously wouldn't go in as deep to let you access the hole. Guess i'll try it this way and see how it holds up. I'm running 5200 lipo's with a Novak 8.5, it's hooked. been neating up on all the xxxt's and T-4's at my local track. The only bad thing about this truck is the tires don't work on the rear, unless it's a super heavy track. IMO. I put some Bow Ties on the back of mine and it's so stuck now i can't the pu8sh out of it.

i didnt shim mine and its been fine for 5 months now with a brushless motor. the only thing i did different from the kit was add some fuel tubing instead of the rubber o rings. that made the dogbones tighter to the diff and it still moves freely. now i added the cvd to the truck and still added fuel tubing to it to keep it tight to the ball cups and still dont have a problem. just another option for you :nod:

my bad for this question but here it is I'm looking to upgrade my sc10 soon to brushless..i don't want anything that's gonna make this truck uncontrollable. so what motor should i get? looking to make it a little faster and still control it on the track.

just so new to these brushless motors.

13.5?..fast slow?
17.5...?
3300?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jombo (Post 5990296)

not having a prob in that are, just the internal diff mesh. But thanks for the suggestion.

On the motor, it depends on what tires your going to be running and how much bite your track has.

My 8.5 is easily contrllable with aftermarket tires. i almost want something even hotter, but don't think the truck wants to hold more than an 8.5, although the track would.

I think if you get a 17.5 or 13.5 you will be dissapointed and end up wanting a new motor. if in doubt, buy the hotter of the 2 your in-between on and gear down opr turn down your epa if need be. Then you have it if you need it without spending another 90 bucks. JMO!!!

Hi ive just got a RTR SC10 and after a good 5 min race the diff sounds bad,i pulled it apart but the gears all look fine,anybody have any idea?
And is they any beter tires than the stock set?guys i race with all have the Slash and they have far beter grip.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZracer07 (Post 5991464)

Any tire is better than the stock tire at my track, J concepts goosbumps, proline bowtie's or slayer switch's, Slash tires.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZracer07 (Post 5991464)

Put one pair of Goosebumps on the rear of that SC10, you won't have to do anything else. ;)

i just got back from my local track and just converted the car to GT2 arms all round and GT2 1.5 degree hubs. put a pair of the proline M2 bowties and the car is now awesome to drive...so much fun now it actually handles.

im running gold springs in the front, and stock tyres on the front, i will upgrade to bowties soon but i have a little bit of a problem with steering.

the car has a bit of push into corners, understeering and i find im using braking to swing it around into corners. i want to have it a bit more precise in the front..

what do you guys recommend...shorter wheel base, weight, 30deg castor blocks, more toe, more camber???

the rear end is hooked now, just need better steering

I'm at the Nats right now and its a pretty good mix of SC10 and Slash. The Slash had an advantage today....the wind. The SC10 was having a problem with a double double and the Slash was able to pin it over both where we had to single. If this new setup works I'll post it after we're done tomorrow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by F N CUDA (Post 5963501)

Just want to shed some lite on KidAgain's diff issues.
Lookin at it last nite we found that it is all bound up inside acting like a spool with no diff action. Feels really tight and grindy, guessin a shim went to pieces and maybe crap is in between the gears?
That's the only thing hurtin his truck and he PROMISED to let us know what went wrong when he finds out.:nod:

:

Well we took the diff apart and noticed the shims were jacked up bigtime, they weren't flat anymore but concave and warped. Put new ones in with 90wt oil and now its smooth as silk :nod:

Quote:

Originally Posted by KidAgain (Post 5994169)

Well we took the diff apart and noticed the shims were jacked up bigtime, they weren't flat anymore but concave and warped. Put new ones in with 90wt oil and now its smooth as silk :nod:

I wonder who did the rebuild. LOL:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:;););)

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuggyKing (Post 5994182)

I wonder who did the rebuild. LOL:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:;););)

;)

:D

The expert that can do it in less then 10 minutes :smile:

Quote:

Originally Posted by R40Victim (Post 5992217)

Put one pair of Goosebumps on the rear of that SC10, you won't have to do anything else. ;)

Ok thanks for that will do :)

Here is some pics of my new build