the point of running a faster motor is. you tone it down for race day and crank it up for bashing around with your buddies.. if you have any.. if you run a mamba 4600 you can have a great racer and then put 11.1v lipo in it and run 70 mph.. not the most sencable thing to do but some of the most fun you can have.. and you can get a mamba setup for about 120 on ebay..

balistic is correct. A sun gear is part of a planetary gearbox -- it has planet gears that revolve around it, hence the name "sun".

http://appauto.files.wordpress.com/2...arygearset.jpg

Spider gears look like this:

http://tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:...os/excII06.jpg

Note the similarity to this:

http://tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:...pider3PSrz.jpg

true rc lipo 8000 fits great in mine i just replaced the screws with longer ones. and thier 8000 are only $85. they work great been useing them for about a year now.

The other thing you can do is not pull the trigger all the way back! LOL

Call me crazy, but the SC10 diff is exactly what you pictured above.


I'm not arguing, but you might wanna double check. There is a reasonably good chance I am right and both of you are wrong, but then again, who knows. :)

Nope...it's definitely not a planetary gearset.

The SC-10 diff is just like a standard automotive open diff. Pinion (aka:"Spider") gears and side gears (what the previous poster referred to as "output" gears.

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/...ntial-open.gif

It's a 4 pinion diff, which is stronger...many, if not most, 1:1 cars have 4 pinions as well.

Gotcha, I'm just basing my statement off what AE refers to them in the manual, and the striking resemblance to the example the other guy posted. But ah well.

Either way, my diff was shot, I shimmed it, and so far so good. I hope it holds up this weekend.

I win both qualifiers last weekend, and get to the mains and lose because my truck can barely make it up a jump due to my diff being toast.

Sooooo pissed.

I run a CC 5700 (moved from another car) and with CC castlelink software radio throttle EPA and gearing, I tailor the motor to perform the way I want. I have it set up to run like a 15.5 or 17.5 too my best guess. I wouldn't encourage everyone to go out and buy a 5700kv motor because it is a bit too much, but in my case, this is what I needed it to do rather than dropping money on another motor.

crazy. :smile:

:nod:

I have about 40 minutes of run time so far. I'll keep an eye on it, but I have to say that this truck is becoming more trouble than it is worth.

initial diff build
 

My SC10 finally showed up today - I've been drooling through this thread for the past week or two and have a couple simple question on the diff topic.

Should I put the extra shims in upon the initial build or is this something folks are doing "after a little wear"?

I've seen a couple postings on silicone diff fluid - but I don't get a read on the success. I'd prefer to go this route simple because I had grease :) I'm thinking 1000 to 2000 range as a starting point.

I don't see how shimming it now, even if it didn't need to be shimmed would hurt anything.

But in all honesty, it only took me 45 minutes to pull mine out, rebuild it completely, shims and all, and have the car driving around my house.

Oh yeah, just use the grease. It works fine. It's all personal preference, but just go with the grease.

I agree try the grease or 25wt/30wt shock oil. I had 1k diff fluid in mine and it was too thick imo. The grease is much better.